dress Archives - Page 14 of 34 - Handmade by Carolyn

white inari

02/11/2016 11:36 am \ 41 Comments \ Carolyn

Mum and I went shopping together on my birthday; her for my birthday present, and me for her birthday present! yes, our birthdays are just a few days apart so this is a bit of a tradition. We went to Fabulous Fabrics. Haha… well how unexpected! *wink*

After much lengthy and highly enjoyable hunting, comparisons and consultations with each other, Mum chose this really beautiful fabric for me. it is thick but very light and airy, has a nubbly, ultra slubby texture and is as pure white as the driven snow. I absolutely adore it, in fact I’d been salivating over it whenever I saw it, ever since it came in. Getting a little bit to give me is extra thoughtful of Mum when you take into account that she doesn’t think white really suits me at all. I kind of agree with her up to a point… however! I still totally adore it, because ~~I’m a dreadfully contrary soul~~… no not really, I just have this thing for white clothing, particularly for summer, I love it with a fierce and burning passion…even a white-hot passion! Mum knows I do, so I thought it pretty sweet that she overrode her feelings to give me something I really love.

Pattern is the Named patterns Inari tee dress. This is my “real” Inari, for which I ran up my previously blogged red striped “muslin”! though of course they are both wearable since I found I needed to make only minor changes to the pattern for it to be perfect.

Something I mentioned in my red-striped inari post, the dress made as per the pattern rides up a bit when you lift your arms, so for this version I made the following simple modification to the sleeves to help reduce the problem:

What I’m doing here is adding width to and reducing the height of the sleeve cap slightly, and doing so without altering the armscye. Diddling about with both the sleeve and the armscye is possible if you really know what you’re doing #idonot; however can be quite complicated and so I tend to not go there… I would prefer to substitute an entirely different, tried-and-true sleeve cap and armscye from another pattern if it came to that!!

from L to R, top to bottom:

1) Trace the sleeve, and draw a line from the shoulder seam junction mark near the apex of the sleeve cap down to the lower edge, parallel to the grain line.
2) Cut from the lower edge up, leaving a scant few mm at the upper edge still attached. Pivot the two halves open; I allowed a gap of 4cm (2″) in width, although you could stand to go a little wider, if desired.
3) Tape a piece of paper to fill and fix the gap
4) redraw that lower hem to curve smoothly in a similar line to how the sleeve was previously, and trim
5) Original sleeve and new sleeve, juxtaposed. You can see how the sleeve is wider; and not seen, but the height of the sleeve cap has been reduced by 2.5cm (1″).
6) Very important!!! remember to measure the length of the new lower edge and cut the sleeve cuffs accordingly! They’ll be a bit longer than the sum of the original width and the width of the gap created in step 2.

Demonstration of results (below); The dress does still ride up a little bit however not nearly as much as previously, at right. To lessen the ride-up even more, you could go even further with widening the sleeve and “flattening” the curve of the sleeve cap even more. Or alternatively of course, you could always substitute an armscye and sleeve cap from another pattern, at a pinch!

I’m pretty happy with this though 🙂

Finishing details:

I still didn’t use the neckline facing, but turned in the seam allowance and finished with a piece of bias-cut white linen. Similarly at the lower hemline, the raw edge inside is bound with bias-cut white linen and then handstitched, this looks nice if anyone happens to catch a glimpse of that back hem inside.. which lets face it, is quite possible because of that low-hanging back edge, and also eliminates the bulk that you’d get if you turned the fabric under twice.

Bonus picture, photobombing daughter…

Fun fact, she made the dress she is wearing here; it is a cute and interesting tank dress with tucking up one side and side split detail on the other, made in blue marl jersey that she bought in Japan. She’s wearing it over the skirt that I made for her, here. Honestly, she makes the most lovely things, but doesn’t really share them on any social media. Occasionally I persuade her to pose in something she’s made, like the time she made this really divinely beautiful ivory cut-out lace top…

Gorgeous, isn’t it?

Details:

Dress; Inari tee dress by Named patterns, white slubby cotton mix
Shoes; designed and made by me, details here
Sandals in top picture;designed and made by me here. this picture taken on Cable Beach during our recent holiday

and hmmmm, I’m sorry that I’m closing with my dress here… bit of an anticlimax after Cassie’s top!!

Posted in: sewing, Uncategorized \ Tagged: Cassie, daily outfit, dress, inari, named patterns, photo-bomb, tutorial

red striped Inari tee dress

29/10/2016 10:22 am \ 23 Comments \ Carolyn

Heya’all. I’ve made this new dress. Actually, I made it ages ago. And took most of these photos ages ago too. Bad lazy blogger!

I wore it recently as my “travelling dress” when we holidayed in Broome, and it was the most AWESOME travelling dress… why? well it’s a loose-fitting, baggy, dress made in a comfy fluffy fleece, so just about the most amazingly comfortable thing EVER! pretty much like wearing a blankie. At the same time, there’s something about the curved, slightly cocoon-y lines of the dress that I think makes it quite smart, chic and pulled-together. This is actually my wearable trial of the pattern and I absolutely love it. I might almost love it more than my “real” version. Almost. I actually love that one a bunch too. To appear here very soon.

Pattern: So, yeah; the Inari tee dress by Named patterns. SUCH a popular pattern, and as I now appreciate, for an excellent reason. It’s terrific. Simple, yes; and basic, and bordering on a boiled-down-to-the-bare-bones kind of a pattern with just a few very subtle features like that slight cocoon shape, the side seams drifting gently frontwards, the split hem and an up-down front and back hem. And I love it. I’m normally attracted to a more complex design for a dress, but this one just hits all the right buttons for me right now.

Fabric; a red and white stripe mid-weight fluffy fleece from Spotlight. This is the same fabric I used for Tim’s Christmas hoodie and for Kelly’s hoodie too. Yep, I bought quite a lot! there was a sale… um, yeah *awkward self-justifying of excessive fabric acquisition* Well, at least I’ve used it all now. This has been kicking around in the stash since pre-Christmas, since I’d decided it didn’t really suit anyone else in the family. I think it suits me though!

My stripes are matched up as perfectly as my obsessive little soul could manage. I’m smugly and complacently satisfied with how well they turned out… the only way I know how to achieve this level of stripe matching is to pin each and every junction and go nice and slow. Tedious but failsafe, and all my stripes here match any which way and everywhere. *primly pats self on back*

sewuthinkucan asked me on instagram whether I found the high slim sleeves on the design to cause the dress to ride up when you lift your arms up as above: not that I pull this pose all that often and probably will be careful now I’ve seen these pictures! but it does a little. Not enough to stop me from wearing it! I think the effect is not too bad because of my fabric being a little stretchy. However, in my next, “real” version of the pattern, I altered the sleeve so as to successfully fix the problem… and will post details on that in my next Inari post.

Alterations; the most obvious one is inseam side pockets! Well, of course. It’s baggy enough and the side hems curve forward slightly to the front, an even more comfortable position for your hands than the true sideline of your body; making inseam pockets an almost foregone conclusion.

My neckline has neither facings nor bindings; partly because my fabric has too much fluff and loft for bulky extras with incorporated double seam allowances etc, and also because this is basically my wearable muslin for the pattern and I just didn’t want to fuss around with it. I overlocked the raw edge and simply turned it in once, topstitching in a single line of stitching from the right side. My fabric is all of thick enough, stretchy enough and stable enough for this to be totally fine. I did do the sleeve cuffs though.

Details:

Dress; Inari tee dress by Named Clothing, red striped fleece
Shoes; designed and made by me, details here

taken after a plane trip, a week rolled up in a suitcase, another plane trip, and precisely zero ironing. LOVE.

Posted in: sewing, Uncategorized \ Tagged: daily outfit, dress, inari, named patterns

a tart for tartan

17/09/2016 12:53 pm \ 50 Comments \ Carolyn

Och aye! I’ve made this big, swirly tartan dress, and I absolutely LOVE it! I know it‘s kinda crazy and huge-skirted and possibly a bit over the top, but you know what? it’s also extremely comfortable and cosy, and so swirly and swishy. The instant I finished it and put it on I immediately felt simultaneously relaxed, like I had put on a warm comfy dressing gown or something; but also a bit chic as well. The big feminine skirt with a nipped-in waist does that, but I really like how the volume below is balanced out by the mannish style shirt top with cargo pockets and flaps, and a notched collar.

Hehe, actually while I was making it I did worry a little bit that it was going to look exactly like a dressing gown! but once I put it on I was instead happily reminded of 80’s Ralph Lauren, and even Spandau Ballet. Remember To Cut a Long Story Short? big big fan here. HUGE fan. I still know all the words off by heart; and that film clip transports me right back into breathless, happy teenagehood all over again, and wearing this dress totally reminds me of that clip and that joyful time in my life; the over-the-top, big, blowsy, romantic 80’s era. So I”m very happy. And, can I say? there’s something about a big wide dramatic skirt that really brings out the poses in a person. Not to mention twirling… put a big skirt on a girl and just watch; you just can’t help it but break out into a coupla twirls.

#awkward!! Yes, well; obviously most of us don’t actually twirl very often. Twirling is something of a fashion blogger contrivance… although if I do want to get in a bit of highland flinging I am all set. 😉

More realistically, it still looks pretty awesome when you’re striding briskly along the street too, and this? I do a LOT.

When making this I had an image in my head of an actual dress like this from an 80’s or maybe 90’s editorial, I swear it was a Ralph Lauren… so of course I wasted many hours searching and searching and searching to link to it, and do you think I can find a picture anywhere of that maybe-Ralph Lauren dress??? NO. The closest thing I could find is this maxi-dress, which isn’t it.

Anyway: Fabric; soft, cotton flannelette, tartan shirting from Spotlight. The same stuff I used to line my Tosti jacket, in a different colourway. One side is slightly fluffy, the other side is smooth and flat. I put the fluffy side inside. This is the opposite of how I used it for my Tosti jacket, which has the fluffy side out! Or… since it’s the lining, is the fluffy side therefore in? hmmm, that’s a puzzle! Navy blue buttons from Fabulous Fabrics.

Pattern: Mum had given me some of her old patterns, including this great Vogue 1147 shirtdress with multiple variations, from 1993. I thought it perfect for that vision of the big skirted, maybe-Ralph Lauren, maybe-not dress in my head. It’s not in my size, but the three nested sizes made it fairly easy to downsize a bit. I made view B, at far left.

The skirt pieces, bodice pockets and flaps are all cut on the bias; bodice and sleeves on the grain. As much as possible, I matched the tartan. #madpatternmatcher This was easy in the bodice and sleeves, and the pockets which please note, are exact mirror images… however! That skirt.…! I love how the centre seams in the skirt have a nice, fairly even row of white diamonds and am fairly happy with how the lines join up at the side seams… this took some careful pinning and only a wee bit of fudging… 😉 Those side edges did not have the same profiles and combine that with an asymmetric tartan…! *hair-pulling stuff* Anyway, the matching turned out pretty good, spot on where it counts, and so is reasonably satisfying 🙂

I cut the sleeves long, then stitched an ultra-wide wide hem. This is then turned up once in a wide cuff, and secured with invisible hand stitching 1cm inside the fold. I did it this way because the underside of the fabric is different from the right side, quite fluffy! and I wanted the smooth side to be on the outside of the turned-up cuffs.

Because the skirt is on the bias, I let it hang up for a week to let the bias drop a bit, and it did! by quite a lot in some places. The hem is hand stitched.

I also made a sort of belt… this helps to pull the waist in. I only made this actually because of my year of totally handmade, meaning I can’t grab one of my nice leather ready-to-wear belts, and I really think the design NEEDS a belt. But now I’ve made it I LOVE how it blends invisibly into the dress so perfectly! It’s basically just an interfaced waistband, with an inside button and two buttonholes. One buttonhole is for the start of the evening, before dinner. The outer one is for when you decide you do want to have dessert after all. Comfort dressing, at its finest!

Details:

Dress; Vogue 1147 from 1993, tartan flannelette shirting
Tights; my own pattern black stretch, details here and my tutorial for making your own custom fit tights pattern is here
Shoes; made by me, details here

Posted in: sewing, Uncategorized \ Tagged: daily outfit, dress, vintage pattern pledge, Vogue 1147

Marimekko dress

18/08/2016 3:59 pm \ 61 Comments \ Carolyn

what’s with the ballet pose? I have no idea. Anyway… I have a Marimekko dress. *pinches self* *sits in reverent silence for a minute*

See, to have a Marimekko dress is something I’ve kinda lusted after for a long long time… I grew up in a Scandinavian style house decorated in modern Scandinavian decor by my everything-Scandinavian-loving parents. White walls, those white Danish “UFO” light fittings; lots of pared-back wood and leather, with simple lines, naif flowers sprouting upon our white bathroom tiles and so I’ve been trained to have an affinity for it from a very early age … When we went to Scandinavia I was quite disappointed to not find any Marimekko fabric during our time there, although to be honest it was a gamble since we didn’t actually manage to get to Finland, the home of Marimekko. All through Sweden, Denmark, Norway and Iceland I harboured vain hopes and searched and searched, obviously coming up empty handed, sob. And I’ve never ever seen any for sale here in Perth; so it’s proven to be pretty elusive stuff! But no more! you CAN get Marimekko fabric in Australia! 🙂

Fabric; Marimekko Pieni Unikko 2 in blue/yellow, and is actually from an Australian fabric store, Yulki’s Home Decor in Hobart, Tasmania, believe it or not! I’m a wee bit sad the brick-and-mortar store is not next door to me! but only a wee bit because the store does (obviously) have online sales. Thank goodness for that! It’s a little price-y but well worth it because it really is absolutely beautiful quality, thick and strong, happily not too thick for clothing, and the colours and prints are of course instantly recognisable, modern day classics, so vibrant and optimistic and happy. There’s a pretty good reason why they are perennially popular and still in production after fifty years… everyone loves a happy vibrant print, and I’m pretty sure I will not be able to resist buying more either *blush*. The currently available range can be viewed here. I’m rather excited to see it comes in oilcloth too… mmmmm, raincoat? *plotting plotting*

I’ve kept the selvedge from off the fabric, and have sewn these inside one of the pockets! just because I love information like this… namely: this design is by prominent Finnish designer Maija Isola, and was created in 1964! out by a year but definitely still of my era, haha. “Pieni unikko” translates literally to “little poppy” I’m not sure what KI 2009 means yet, but I’m investigating…. Also, how cool is it that the laundering info is printed on the selvedge?! so classy and very considerate really, it’s been along long time since I’ve seen such consideration in a fabric. That information’s the kind of thing I usually forget the very minute I swan out of the shop with my new fabric tucked under my wing.

I also sewed this: “The Label” inside my dress… half of me wanted to sew it on the outside, haha! but of course Marimekko is instantly recognisable so there’s probably no need.

hehe, I’ve just asked my husband, and he had no idea! so maybe I should amend that, ahem… instantly recognisable to design and fabric afficianadoes, then!

Pattern; I used dress 108, the cover dress from the Burda 04/2014 issue, also known as the Wings Dress. It’s an interesting design; looks simple but has quite a lot of seaming which I chose to highlight with inset strips of acid-yellow cotton voile, bought from Calico House. My method for framing pieces with contrasting inset strips like this is here… and my method for edging those pocket openings as part of the side seam inset strip is here… I also edged the neckline, armholes and the lower hem and edges of the overskirt in yellow cotton as well. The dress closes with a long navy blue invisible zip in the centre back. I agonised a bit over the colour to use here, the contrasts in the colours of the print are all pretty extreme! yellow? blue? black? white? aaagh, so hard. The navy blue turned out not too bad, I reckon.

The bodice has princess seams and tiny additional bust darts in the centre front piece that I believe are called a Dior dart. This is the very first time I’ve come across one of these! it just adds a little more nuance to the “shape” in the bodice. Although there is all that shaping by seaming, the design is actually little boxy, believe it or not. I shaped mine a bit more throughout those seaming lines, bringing it in at the waist more and giving a bit more width at my hips. The princess seams in the bodice visually connect to the gore lines in the skirt, which itself has an interesting overskirt feature with the pockets in it. I think it looks quite interesting and pretty and lends the whole dress a slightly sporty “wraparound” feel to it, a bit like a sports or tennis dress.

I finished the raw pocket edges inside the front overlays all with HongKong seaming, because they have a tendency to flap open and show! So, I had to make sure the insides here look as lovely as possible. Binding the seams visually ties the inside with the inset strips on the outside; all those yellow edges everywhere just keeps it all nicely harmonious. Well, I reckon it does…

The loose front pieces also allows you to have these big loose comfortable pockets that you can shove your hands in, while still maintaing quite a slimline dress overall. As a result, the pattern uses very little fabric. I managed to squeeze my pattern pieces out of 1.5m, which is not too bad, not too bad at all, I think *preens oneself on an exceptionally economic layout* I had the merest of scraps left after cutting out my pieces, scraps, I tell you! The pattern has you line the dress, and after a bit of um-ing and aah-ing, I decided to not. Reason? summers here are very hot and I think the breeziness of this lovely cotton fabric is going to be perfect just as it is.

So that’s it! I love it paired up like here with my new white shoes. A little bit sporty, a little bit flower child, a LOT summer; my little bit of Marimekko loveliness is just awaiting to dazzle with ultra mod 60’s chic. Right on. 🙂

Details:

Dress; Burdastyle 108;04/2014 in Marimekko cotton with cotton voile contrast
Shoes; my own design and made by me, details here

Pictured below on Cable Beach, Broome… along with my hat and my new sandals

Posted in: sewing, Uncategorized \ Tagged: Burdastyle 04/2014-108, daily outfit, dress, pattern review

jean genie

07/08/2016 3:08 pm \ 54 Comments \ Carolyn

I’ve made a new dress using a bunch of my kids’ old jeans that I have been saving for this very purpose… and please note; yes, I am wearing denim shoes that I also made from old jeans, hehehe. Just adding to the overall,terribly cohesive, jeans, jeans, jeans and yet more jeans look that I’ve got going on here. Jeans from head to toe!! even though I’m not actually wearing any jeans, haha. Long term readers may remember these shoes from when I made them a couple of years ago… I’ve worn them a lot actually. They seem to go with everything!
The Refashioners’ challenge this year was to make a garment using old jeans … which is fabulous timing for me! one of my imagined versions for this pattern has always been a jeans refashion and so the challenge just roused me from merely daydreaming about it and into action. I’m a happy little refashioner from way back.. anyone remember Wardrobe Refashion? aaaah, I was a pretty active participant and was a little sad when it all wound down. But still keeping up with that lifelong pledge!

Pattern; Vogue 1316. this is the fourth version of the pattern I have made and actually the second I’ve made from old jeans, come to think of it! My first version was made using four pairs of different coloured corduroy jeans. See also my second, blue version, and my third, autumn version. I still have several more plans for this pattern… but maybe I should wait before bringing any more to fruition; I now have three pairs currently rotating in my wardrobe, and a fourth might be just stretching credibility… just a bit! It’s quite an eye-catching and distinctive design, over all. This new one is pretty summer-y though, and I probably won’t be wearing it until things warm up around here a bit.

Materials; obviously, all blue denim jeans. I used three pairs of children’s jeans, one pair of child’s long shorts and one pair of adult jeans. The adult jeans turned out to be necessary when I realised that the full-length panels at the back would look pretty terrible if pieced at the waist; it’s a very much piecemeal kind of a design anyway, and to have that nice long smooth length of fabric at the back is just a nice visual anchor in amongst all that busy patchworking, in my opinion. I decided it would be best to retain it; fortunately I had one pair of Craig’s old jeans in my refashioning bag and could cut the long back pieces from those.

My vision for this dress has always been to have lots of the existing jeans’ details retained in it, like the pockets with their decorative top-stitching, the coin pockets and belt loops and so forth; HOWEVER when it came down to it I retained very little of all that! The design was just so… busy; I ended up removing a lot of the little details I was going to put in. There’s still plenty of the jeans bits and pieces left in, I reckon just the right amount to keep that definite “jeans flavour” to it. There are a few original topstitched seams here and there, and the portion of a pocket left on the bodice. I also added tonnes of new topstitching in terracotta upholstery thread, in fact every seam is topstitched down in some cases doubly so.

Something I’ve managed to forget to blog about each time I’ve written about this dress… like all Vogue patterns, for a fitted design it’s a little blouse-y in the boob-al region for my figure; however the princess seamed bodice makes this a very easy fix. I simply pin and stitch to shave a bit off the inner curve of the central bodice piece (above), and this solves the problem for me. A very very easy small bust adjustment, and one I usually end up using for pretty much every fitted Vogue bodice with princess-seaming. I don’t have the same issues with Burda, but always with Vogue. I guess their “blocks” are a little different.

The back vent (above) is topstitched in navy blue thread, rather than the terracotta. Trust me, it just looked better this way. I also used an navy blue invisible zip This was the only new thing I bought for the dress! The pockets (below) are lined with scraps of pretty floral voile… this was leftover from a dress that Cassie made for herself. We bought the fabric together in Tokyo during our very first visit there in 2011, when we met Yoshimi and Novita for a fabric shopping day out, Aaaah, yet more happy memories!

One pair of jeans, the very pale blue pair, was practically threadbare in places, but I still really wanted to have that pale blue as part of the lovely indigo-y mix… these pieces I reinforced with lightweight iron-on interfacing to the back to stabilise and strengthen these areas (below). Don’t want my new dress ripping in its first wear now, do I?!

For the bottom hem, I kept the original jeans’ hems in every piece (below). This took a little bit of careful pattern placement, but I’m so happy with how it looks! Yes, it’s a bit torn and worn in places, but that’s the honest history of the fabrics, right there. The dress is a refashion, and proud of it. The other little bit of history that I love about it is that you can just make out faint pink stains on one of the denims… this was a pair of jeans that Tim wore while painting once, and those paint stains never did come out despite many washes! They are still there, and I LOVE them. Oh, I’m a sentimental old thing, and happily so, too 🙂

Details:

Dress; Vogue 1316, made from old jeans, see my original review of this pattern here
Shoes; made by me from old jeans and hand-carved wooden bases, details here

Posted in: sewing \ Tagged: dress, vogue 1316, Wardrobe Refashion

a toasty autumn-y dress

29/06/2016 3:54 pm \ 35 Comments \ Carolyn

I’ve made another dress. Just right now, I’m fully into dress/skirt wearing, tending to pluck them from the wardrobe with barely scant regard to the several nice pairs of jeans in there. I dunno why, since it’s winter, and you’d think I would want to be wearing jeans, but that’s just the way it is. Of course I reserve the right to become a jeans fanatic again without notice, anytime down the track.
I have a perfectly good reason for a new winter dress… I’m meeting with a bunch of sewing ladies this Friday and you know what that means…. YES! must sew something new to wear. Can’t just wear any old thing, hmmmm? Aaah, the pressure! Sewing meet ups nearly always require new clothing, yes? No worries, I’m totally on to it. Note to self; need lots more sewing meet ups #kidding #kindof

The pattern is Vogue 1316, a favourite which I have made twice before, each time with the addition of deep pockets (above) hidden under that long diagonal front curved band. (see my advice for adding pockets to the design illustrated here). I seem to be in the habit of making a new one every year! but that’s not totally a surprise since I’ve unequivocally loved the design from the very first version. I also seem to be in the habit of always making it in corduroy! which is kinda funny since I actually have plans for several different experiments using this pattern, none of which involve corduroy at all. I should get onto those, tout de suite. Maybe I should realise another one, and there’ll be two new Vogue 1316’s this year? Oh, I think so; yes, I do think so…

This one is all wide-wale cotton corduroy from Spotlight, with an invisible zip from Spotlight, and the dress is fully lined in burgundy polyacetate lining fabric found in my stash, originally from Fabulous Fabrics.

Well, for now I’m just going to enjoy mixing and matching this new one into the current wardrobe repertoire. The warm toasty colours are going to go with lots of things I currently have, I think.

the colours in sunlight

Ok, seeya! soon I’m off to meet sewing ladies! and to look at fabric! and wool! and eat yummy stuff! #it’satoughlife

Wooot

Details:

Dress; Vogue 1316, cotton corduroy, my review of this pattern here
Tights; self-drafted, black stretch stuff, details here and my tutorial for making your own custom fit tights pattern is here
Boots; made by me, details here

LATER EDIT: 3 years later and the dress got a facelift! a rejuvenating dunk into a crimson dye bath… I’d been feeling like that apricot in particular was a bit in-your-face in a colour-clashing sort of a way and a crimson dye-bath has united the colours so they meld in together so much more nicely now. Feels like a new dress!

Posted in: sewing \ Tagged: daily outfit, dress, dyeing, vogue 1316

a passing housewife

14/05/2016 11:51 am \ 33 Comments \ Carolyn

What am I? I am a passing housewife!!!

Hehehe just to explain, Izumi Curtis is a character from my favourite Japanese anime Fullmetal Alchemist. She always introduces herself as just a passing housewife, and so is the character I can relate to the most. And so, when it comes to choosing an anime character for myself… Izumi Curtis, I choose you!!!! …that’s a pikachu reference there, in case it did not translate…

Izumi Curtis, character and artwork by Hiromu Arakawa

So, firstly… WHY?? well, in Northbridge there is a retro video-gaming bar called Respawn that my kids like to go to… and I should just slip in here that this VERY MUCH a young adult’s kind of a place to hang out on Friday and/or Saturday night. Anyway, last night was Mum’s Night, like a nod to Mother’s Day last weekend, and the deal was that if you brought your Mum you all got free entry. So naturally, Sam and Cassie hatched a plot that I would be going along with them. Of course I said yes! how often do I get invited out on the town with my adult kids? pretty rarely, that’s what! I won’t say never, since my kids are pretty fun and relaxed and not usually embarrassed by my company, but going out to a nightclub in Northbridge is not generally a family thing to do, mmmm? Fellow Perthies will attest to that 😉

Another thing about Respawn is that people often cosplay it up… and so I set about planning and making my costume… I made a sleeveless white shirt-dress/coat-dress, I wore my recently completed Morgan boyfriend jeans, and I made a pair of Japanese toilet slippers like the ones Izumi always wears.

Coat-dress/shirt-dress:

I used two patterns; Vogue 8997, a dress pattern, and for the notched collar I adapted the neckline and spliced on the collar from Closet Case patterns Carolyn pyjamas.

Alterations: for the collar, I added width to the centre back lines of both collar pieces, to fit the width neckline I was after. I also squared off the collar points somewhat, so as to match the more square collar points of Izumi’s coat dress. For the dress; I cut the bodice fronts to have a centre front opening and adapted the neckline to have the notched collar bit, and added enough extra width in the centre front to accommodate the button and buttonhole band. Likewise the front skirt piece has the buttoned opening. Likewise I cut the back skirt to have a centre back seam, and added a bit extra to the lower part of the opening to hem it.

The bodice front and back are in double fabric, and self-lined, so as to enclose the princess seams within the layers. Even though this is just a costume, I reckon there’s no need to cut corners and do a shoddy job of sewing it! I had a small moment of shock when my own Mum suggested just cutting the collar in a single layer of fabric and leave it with a raw edge … oh the horror!! I dunno, call me obsessive, but nowadays I could probably not sew a garment all rough-shod like that in all good conscience. Making all my clothes for the past few years and I am now a fair dinkum full-on, signed up member of the well-made clothing snob club, right here.

Izumi’s coat-dress/shirt-dress is very well fitted, practically skin tight across her bosom which suggests a stretchy fabric. However the collar is also quite structured and stiff-looking, more like a regular woven-fabric shirt collar. So, to get that tight, fitted look; I used two different fabrics in my bodice, a stretch and a non-stretch. Actually, I used three different fabrics all together… but more on that later…. to get the fitted tightness of the bodice AND the structured collar, I cut the bodice front and back from stiff woven ripstop cotton, and I cut the bodice side fronts and backs from stretchy bengaline. This way, there is stretch at my sides, but the shirt fronts maintain that nice crisp look of a tailored notched collar shirt. When fitting the shirt-dress/coat-dress to myself, I left the side seams until the last thing, and the final step was to pull in those bodice side seams nice and tight.

And yes, the skirt is a different, woven cotton… one that is not so stiff and has a bit more flow to it, more suitable to a skirt than the rip-stop. All are long term residents from my stash, probably from Fabulous Fabrics originally. The white buttons were harvested from a recently chucked-out doona cover.

Slippers: Izumi always wears these Japanese toilet slippers…. this is to reiterate her status as a humble housewife and that she spends her days cleaning and doing housework. I made these very quickly and simply, the padding is cut from my good old yoga mat, covered with black cotton cut from an old Tshirt. For the uppers and the underneath bit, I used some very stiff thick black cotton from Remida, from when Meggipeg kindly invited me to go with her the other day. I did the WC letters on the top by couching with some thick, white wool, leftover from Cassie’s beanie that I knitted her for Christmas.

Another pretty important component of Izumi’s look is the Flamel tattoo. Cassie drew this on with a ballpoint pen; it was a little bit hidden on me, but ’twas there…

And, you may be wondering… did I wear this outfit, and these slippers in the streets of Northbridge and in the club? well yes I did! You can rest assured that the other Mums were of course wearing all black, and heels or ankle booties and the like… but not I! I am just! a passing! HOUSEWIFE!!!!!!

pictured in the club…

Posted in: sewing \ Tagged: Carolyn, Closet Case files, dress, fancy dress, own design, shoes, Vogue 8997

Martha goes Impressionist

17/04/2016 5:49 pm \ 43 Comments \ Carolyn

I’ve made a new dress for Cassie! does’t she look swish and smart and ultra-glam? Well, I reckon so 🙂

Pattern; the Martha dress, from Tilly and the Buttons. I was recently contacted by Joanne from Tilly and the Buttons and asked if I would review the pattern, and I was like, an excuse to sew? hells yeah!! I thought the dress would look really nice on Cassie. And it does!

Fabric; a medium/heavyweight jacquard, quite lustrous and with a rich subtle sheen to it; in a weave of pewter grey/ navy blue/ mauve threads. It makes me think of moonlight reflections upon water. Although when I asked the family for naming suggestions, Cassie suggested corroded steel, and Craig suggested concrete cancer. Oh nice. Very poetic; yeah thanks, family!

Origins; well a week or so ago; I went down to my parents’ place ostensibly to help Mum to clean out a room of “stuff”. Obviously that meant that I came home with a large chunk of that stuff. To be added to my own ever-growing pile of stuff that itself needs a good going-through. *sigh* So I have a few more bins of fabric at my disposal *double sigh* More fabric! oh woe is me 😉 Anyway, this particular piece caught my eye as being a great candidate for the dress. It’s stiff enough to cope with all the shaped seaming going on in the bodice of this design, and also gives a beautiful twirly flare to that full skirt.

in full twirl mode!

I didn’t have much of it, plus it had that directional, woven-in pattern, so I cut out the skirt pieces on the grain rather than on the bias as recommended in the pattern. I think it’s absolutely fine on the grain. And even with the more economical layout, I just barely had enough fabric to cut out the pieces. I have the merest scant handful of scrappiest scraps left… I reeeeeeeally wanted the knee-length skirt rather than the mini, so I was so pleased that I could squeak those out!

Sizing; Cassie’s measurements correspond to a 2, so I cut out the 3 and custom fit to her through all those bodice seams. The bodice ended up pretty close to a 2 after all, apart from the lower back princess seams, which got taken in a good deal more, so the waist is more like a 1. The skirt pieces were tapered out along the side and princess seams to the 3 at the hemline; so the skirt is a tad more “flared out” than the pattern stipulates. Hey, the more flare the better, right?

I was a little wary of the Mandarin collar; I just knew it wouldn’t go with Cassie’s style, so left that off. My first plans for the neckline were to eventually cut away the shoulder/top edge to be a more boat neckline sort of a shape, which is a universally flattering neckline in anything, in my opinion… but during bodice fitting it was still as is, no cutting, and Cassie got to a point where she hated the highness of the neckline and pretty much threatened that she would not wear it. Aiyiyiyiyi! I promised her that she would love it by the time I had finished, but even I myself, by that time, was starting to think a high neck, even in a lovely boat line; would still not really work for this particle print …. the print was too busy? neck-to-knee it would all be a bit overwhelming? whatever the reason I could sense disaster looming on the horizon.

Anyway I had a brainwave… I suddenly thought of putting in that long front slit. I did it without consulting her, and just messaged her a picture of it while she was at work, and she immediately texted back enthusiastic approval. Phew!!! Saved!

I’d cut neckline facings from grey cotton leftovers, drew on a centrally placed line for the slit and stitched the facings on, carefully skimming around that line. I then cut the slit, under stitched all around the neckline including the slit edges, and turned the facing inside. On the outside it is stitched down by “stitching in the ditch” invisibly along the shoulder seams and also along those princess seams. Seen in the picture as a navy blue line of stitching each side of the facing there, since I couldn’t be bothered changing the navy blue in the bobbin for pale grey, hehehe.

What other mods… oh I also added inseam side pockets… well of course! I’m sorry to bang on about pockets all the time like I do; but pockets, if at all possible, are just a must-have in my opinion! I cut these from more scraps of grey cotton.

OK, so that’s that! Cassie absolutely loves it, and I do too. I even think it has Veronika Maine or Cue vibes to it; which is a very good thing. These are two of my favourite Australian clothing labels, and if I was to ever decide to buy clothes ever again I would be popping in there like a shot. Heck, sometimes still I do, just to get inspiration!

I’ve even done a “proper” pattern review, below. How long has it been since I got all official like that? ages, that’s what!

Pattern Description: the Martha dress is fitted with bust darts and gentle princess seam panels at the bodice, flowing into a bias-cut panelled skirt. It features a contemporary Mandarin collar and closes with an visible zip at the back. Choose from short sleeves or three quarter bell sleeves, with knee length or mini hemline.

Pattern Sizing; 1-8. This is a new-to-me pattern company, with new-to-me sizing, and so I like to size up for the first thing, just in case! My daughter’s measurements correspond to the size 2 so I cut out a 3 and then custom-fitted to her through the side seams and those handily situated princess seams. It ended up being whittled back down to the expected size 2.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it? in essence I think it does, although I made a few design alterations and my fabric choice is very different from the recommended so there’s that too. Actually, I think my heavier weight fabric makes the biggest difference.

Were the instructions easy to follow? very easy! The pattern envelope says it’s suitable for “Improvers” which I thought was cute! I’ve been sewing for a long long (long) time, but I’m sure I still have room for improvement 😉

What did you particularly like/dislike about the pattern? I think the pattern is absolutely fine… though I did make several modifications to fit personal taste. I particularly like the swingy, flared gored skirt, it sits out beautifully in the stiffer full-bodied fabric and twirls gorgeously. Not that Cassie does a heap of twirling! but still 🙂 I wasn’t so sure about the Mandarin collar, and neither was Cassie so I finagled something else instead, but that’s purely a matter of taste and not a fault of the pattern. I can see the mandarin collar is perfectly well-drafted and I would consider using it in a different design, like, say, with a sheath dress.

Fabric used; a medium/heavyweight, semi-glossy jacquard that has some body but is still reasonably flow-y The pattern recommends lightweight fabrics like crepe de chine and lawn, but I really think all those fitting seams in the bodice and the 6-gored skirt could really benefit from a thicker weightier fabric

Pattern alterations of any design changes you made; I left off the sleeves completely; instead I scooped out the armscye by a bit and finished the edges with grey cotton bias-binding, under-stitched, turned inside and hand-stitched invisibly in place.
My fabric has a directional, woven-in design; so to save the visual integrity of that, I cut out the skirt pieces on the grain rather than on the bias as recommended in the pattern. I think this is a perfectly doable option for this design. Plus, you will save fabric!
I also left off the mandarin collar…the neckline I cut a little lower both front and back and finished with a facing, cut from the same grey cotton. The centre front of the neckline has a long, faced slit.
I also added in-seam side pockets.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I probably will sew it again one day, using some of the other sleeve/length variations. It’s a nice, simple and classic design, which with the right fabric could be put to use as anything from a work-dress suitable for the office to a party dress.

Conclusion: A successful outcome! After some tense earlier moments during the fitting before I’d sewn in the bodice slit yet and she declared that she wasn’t going to wear it, my daughter was thrilled with it in the end and is planning to wear it to work as well as to dressier, evening-out events! An honour, if not a relief for the maker (me) indeed 🙂

Disclaimer; this pattern was given to me by Tilly and the Buttons for my honest review. All opinions are most definitely my own. There are no affiliate links on my blog and never will be; I am in it because I love sewing 🙂