jacket Archives - Page 3 of 7 - Handmade by Carolyn

Elementary, my dear Sherlock

15/07/2018 3:21 pm \ 14 Comments \ Carolyn

Yes, I know; a complete mis-quote of an already mis-quote… *braces oneself for outraged Holmes enthusiasts*

But wot is this new thing I’m wearing ‘ere then?! Is it a jacket…? no, a cape…? some tweedy, distinctly Holmes-esque thing, somehow exuding English-ness, an air of briskly strolling in the country, of hounds-at-dawn, roaming in-swathes of fog and mystically swirling mist, stalking the streets of London or out on the Baskerville moors? Fittingly, I’m accompanied here by my very own hound, who while certainly a fearsome and diabolical creature at times, is however sadly lacking a Baskerville lineage.

So, I was mindlessly browsing Le Internet, checking out new-to-me pattern companies, something I am wont to do, randomly, late at night and way past my bedtime,… and clicked Add to Cart on the Cape-Sleeved Jacket by Trend Patterns. Followed by… Purchase. So daring!!

It’s a rather interesting and lovely style, not something I’ve seen anywhere else: a longline open jacket with notched collar and interesting “sleeves” that are more like an intriguing hybrid of sleeves and cape. I searched my stash for a suitable victim, and unearthed a grey/black houndstooth-y check suiting; given to me yonks ago by ?I think? Mum, though I’m not totally sure. It had exactly the right weight and style for this design, but the colour was pretty dead and cold and flat and looked absolutely terrible on me… so I squandered more time than I care to admit to, attempting to dye it. It was a rather large piece, so I’d started out leaving it to soak cold in a large tub of yellow dye. This had almost no effect, so I added orange for synthetic fabrics. This had a tiny teeny little effect. So then I dried the fabric, and cut out the jacket pieces, which made for a smaller bulk of fabric for the dye pot, and boiled it all up with the same dye mix. Finally; SUCCESS!!!!

helping…

from left; original colour… after soaking… after boiling

The new shade of tobacco was rather warm and pleasing, and deemed acceptable. Of course the big problem about dying pieces, already cut up; as opposed to one single piece of fabric, is that the pieces frayed a bit, and also got stretched out and distorted somewhat in the boiling/dyeing process, and so I’m not 100% confident that my final jacket is all that perfect or beautiful… but I did my best! carefully steaming everything back into the shape of the intended pattern piece.

Lining; fully lined with chocolate polyacetate lining fabric, from my stash, probably originally from Fabulous Fabrics since it’s a really nice quality.

below; see how the front armhole is open right up to practically shoulder level? I think it’s worth pointing this out since I actually had no idea it was like this from the line drawing and remained ignorant right up until it came time to add the cape facing…

That’s not a criticism btw, just an observation. I really love my new Sherlock Holmes jacket, and I really loved making it too; but I’ve admit; it was not a particularly easy project. Even given the fact that I complicated things for myself a. dyeing and b. deciding I absolute HAD to have in-seam pockets – which were a big success in the end if I say so myself. I’m so glad I put them in. Actually I can’t imagine a jacket without pockets of some kind.

How did I put in my pockets? so I remembered to take a few pictures but not many, so hopefully my written explanation will suffice… I cut the front armhole piece (below, at left) and the front panel (below, at right) as pictured; and in addition, a pocket opening facing piece (below, middle) with the same upper edge as the slanted edge of the front panel (at right) I also cut a pocket lining (not pictured) from the same chocolate polyacetate lining fabric used throughout the jacket… it’s the same size and shape as the pocket bag extension (at left) and with a slanted top edge equivalent to that of the pocket opening (at right)…

the pocket opening edge is that slanted edge showing out from under the square inner edge of the paper pattern piece, and that little extra piece is the pocket opening facing. The facing is interfaced (see below), stitched along that slanted edge leaving a 1cm free at either edge of seam, and under stitched. I cut a pocket lining using the same chocolate lining fabric that lines the whole jacket and stitched this on to the lower edge of the pocket facing. Then stitched the pocket and pocket linings together around the long curved pocket edge. The remainder of the jacket construction proceeds as normal, and the pocket is nicely hidden away between the jacket outer and lining

So; what was tricky about making this jacket…? well, the steps are illustrated with photographs, not drawings; so if you’re the kind of person who often goes on the illustrations then it’s not always clear which pattern pieces or which seam you might be looking at in this photograph or that one…. and there are 27 un-numbered pattern pieces… Maybe I’m just dumb, or losing it or something, but I’ve been sewing clothes for myself for over forty years and there were bits where I was scratching my head and had to read and re-read over a couple of times to “get” it.

It’s also pretty important to mark the marks, notches and dart lines carefully and securely. As far as this project goes, this is where my brilliant plan to dye my fabric pieces fell apart a bit since a lot of these little marks were dislodged and lost while dyeing, and notches disappeared in fraying edges, and it was pretty hard to re-instate everything accurately. To be honest, there were several times I felt like heaving the whole lot in the bin and starting over anew, with fresh new fabric, particular since I hadn’t even liked my fabric all that much in the first place!!

I think numbering the pattern pieces would have been a HUGE help, and then to use those numbers in the instructions. Another thing, the instructions are…. kinda sparse. The term “bag out” is used several times … I’ve always been a little thrown by the term”bag out”. I mean, I know what it is… basically just another way of saying stitch the outer and lining layers together. See, I grew up under the tutelage of the long-term pattern companies like Vogue, McCalls and Burda; and “bag out” is not a phrase that ANY of them EVER use, as a rule. Also, “bag out” is incidentally Australian slang for picking on someone, like rudely giving them a really hard time, so seeing it pop up in sewing instructions is always a moment for pause 😉

After all this; I actually quite happy with how my jacket turned out, and am even little keen to make it up again. I think my attempts to dye the fabric just made the project a whole bunch harder than it needed to be, and I’d like to give the pattern a second chance, and to do it properly, make a really good and proper tailoring job of it next time. I would also like to add a few more pockets, to the inside and the lining, like a mens’ suit jacket has.

Details:

Jacket; TPC13, the Cape-sleeve Jacket by Trend Patterns, grey tweed overdyed with orange dye
Shirt; the Closet Case patterns Carolyn pj shirt, white cotton, details here
Skirt; Burdastyle 10-2010; 136 (the Karl Lagerfeld skirt), in black suiting, details here
Tights; my own custom fit pattern, details here
Shoes, designed and made by me, details here

My cape-sleeve jacket feels so very very Sherlock Holmes to me that I couldn’t resist just popping over to London for a more appropriate photoshoot location….

jk, of course. Hurrah for the wonders of photoshop!

Posted in: sewing, Uncategorized \ Tagged: cape sleeved jacket, Clara, coat, daily outfit, dyeing, jacket, pattern review, photoshop, pocket, trend patterns

suits me to a tee

22/09/2017 5:36 pm \ 56 Comments \ Carolyn

So, a new year, a new Refa shioners challenge…last year we did jeans, this time the thing to be updated is A SUIT.

Most disappointingly, I could find no one in my family or circle of friends to donate a suit to the cause. 😉 Well of course not… let’s see; these things are a) expensive and b) made to last a lifetime. It takes a lot for a man to give up his suit. And let’s not forget to mention the biggie; c) suits are usually beautifully tailored things and the very thought of giving one to somebody who is just going to take the scissors to it is a pretty big ask. I know I wouldn’t give one up either!!

before…

So I went along to the the opshop and bought one. It was $22. Even then, I still felt pretty bad about chopping it up, and found myself mentally apologising to the unknown tailor the whole time. My suit is a Sax Altman: Sax Altman has been making high quality, traditionally tailored suits in Australia using fine Australian wool since 1977.

Just so you know, this is a pretty good innings by Australian standards… It’s actually pretty difficult to find suits in opshops here, men hang onto them forever. Lots of orphaned sports jackets and some suit pants, but not many matching sets. I initially honed in on this suit just because it wasn’t black! it is a deep charcoal-y/chocolate brown with subtle blue and grey pinstripes.

the fabric is pretty beautiful…

Once I got it home and had got a good look at it I could appreciate its quality; it’s beautifully made and let me tell you it was pretty darn hard to make that first snip… I’d decided already that I would make something that would honour the original tailoring, and keep as much of the important bits as I could, this one had it all; the interlined padded fronts with hand-padstitching, horsehair interlining, bias cut strips of organza everywhere on the inside to stabilise various areas, taped fronts, and tonnes of inner tape everywhere; sometimes bias cut organza, sometimes a sturdy cotton, sometimes strips cut from the selvedge… these were variously used as stay tape in different spots, hidden inside. It was all pretty heavily and exquisitely engineered and one thing’s for sure; I could never produce something like this myself!!

What I did: I wanted for the jacket to be quite close-fitted to my shape, so I opened up the lining at the lower back hem and took in the suit jacket through ALL the seams here… the centre back seam, the back princess seams and the side seams, at the same time, I took in the jacket lining through the seams inside too.. I didn’t touch the front darted seams because they ran into the front pockets and altering them would have ruined the integrity of the pockets. Oh, I’m pretty pleased that I managed to keep EVERY SINGLE POCKET of the original suit… I really didn’t want to sacrifice any, I thought if I absolutely had to I would… but I managed to keep them all. THE SANCTITY OF THE ALMIGHTY POCKET MUST BE UPHELD!!! (kidding)

I removed the sleeves and trimmed several inches off the shoulders, and cut off the lower half of the legs to use for new kimono sleeves, binding the lower armhole with bias-cut wool harvested from a sleeve.

The leg hemline had a really nicely turned up cuff, which I liked, and kept for the new sleeve hem. I love the new bracelet-length sleeves! if I did have to nit-pick, in an ideal world I think I would have preferred a wider sleeve but you know refashioning, sometimes you just gotta make it work with what you have!

I turned in and stitched a new front opening line for the jacket, making it a long, diagonal straight front coming to a point with a single button closure (above). I cut so as to remove the lower two buttonholes, keeping the original upper button hole and repositioning the upper button over a bit to give the front more of a “wrapped” kimono-inspired look.

That’s the jacket!!

The new skirt nearly drove me mad…. men and women are not built the same (duh); we women want width for our hips and hemline, and a narrow waistline… men’s clothes are made to be the total opposite. And also, the CUT! because of course the legs and the fly of men’s suit pants are cut differently against the grainline to how a skirt is cut, this makes it extremely difficult to transform them into a skirt! Fortunately the trousers were big enough I had a bit of extra width to play with here…. first of all, I took off the waistband and unpicked nearly everything except for the side seams where the side hip pockets were attached.

I removed the old zip which had gotten a little rickety over the years, and installed a new black dress zip. This entailed truing up the grain lines at centre front and creating a completely new fly and fly shield.

you can just see at the top; a strip of organza that was used to stabilise the waistline… I kept as much of these superb “hidden” structural details as I could, too

I wanted a flat-fronted look to the skirt, so made wide long darts at the front waistline to pull in the extra width there, these I topstitched down on the outside, continuing the topstitching down seamlessly to become stitched pin-tucks down the full length of the skirt front. This is exactly where the pressed line was for the trousers.

The skirt front is straight, but those back trouser legs are cut so as to curve IN, just where you don’t want them to when cutting a skirt, so I’d cut a triangular godet from the jacket sleeves, taking in the sleeve cuff buttons/buttonholes and the original sleeve hem. I was a little disappointed that these were fake button-cuffs and can’t be opened… but they still look pretty nice you know, you can’t win ’em all 😉

I inserted the godets in the lower skirt side seams along with a long inverted pleat so the skirt back kicks out over the godet. I actually love this little detail.

I don’t even want to say how many pinnings and bastings it took me to get this silhouette that I wanted; a flatt-ish skirt front and a slightly flippy skirt back. LOTS

Finishing up… shortened the waistband, reinstalled it stitched the belt tabs down again… oh and still managed to maintain that little coin pocket that sits right beneath the waistband… pretty proud of myself that I finagled that, hehe: and BAM! finally done!! A fresh new womanly suit made from an old discarded men’s suit, albeit a rather nice one. I’m very happy with the long-line jacket with slightly kimono-y vibes and a short, structured-yet-flirty skirt. I feel like it’s very very me 🙂

And I still had a few leftovers from a sleeve… so I made a bandanna for Clara, and a new little zipped pouch to hold her poo-bags. *

*it’s the law in Australia that if you are walking a dog, you MUST be carrying little placky bags so you can pick up after your dog, there’s a hefty fine if you’re caught without them! I just used to tie them on to Sienna’s lead and then for blog pictures would try to hide them because they’re so ugly… or take her off her lead for a bit… you can see them in an earlier picture here… anyway I don’t know why I didn’t make a little bag like this aaaages ago!

I used an old zip and attached a jump ring and a little swivel clip so it can clip onto her lead. The swivel clip was a leftover from when I made my winter boots… they’re not terribly robust so I plan to replace it with a mini carabina when I can get hold of one.

The only new things I used for this refashion were: thread, the zip in the skirt, and the zip, jump ring and swivel clip in Clara’s bag. Not too bad!

Details:

Jacket and skirt; my own design, finagled from an old mens’ trouser suit
Bodysuit; the Nettie by Closet Case patterns, from paprika stretchy stuff, details here
Shoes: Misano, from Labels boutique

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Posted in: sewing \ Tagged: Clara, coat, daily outfit, jacket, own design, skirt, suit, Wardrobe Refashion

Sydney jacket

20/08/2017 11:52 pm \ 57 Comments \ Carolyn

have you guys seen COLOSSAL… ?

Bet you can’t guess where I am here… Yeah, I know, it’s a tough one. Some locations are just so obscure and far off the beaten track, but I do like to seek out these especially quiet and sleepy, tucked-away little spots to highlight here on ye olde blog… GO me.

Yeah, so I’ve made a Sydney jacket… I bought the pattern from Tessuti’s in Melbourne back during my March trip away there with Mum, Cassie and my niece Tiffany; and have finally got around to giving it a whirl… I think I first saw this design on Sue, at one of our meet ups and was instantly interested. It’s a pretty nice design with a true shawl collar and not just your usual body with two set in sleeves. This is like my wearable muslin, if you like.

I used a very blankety-like wool-mix from Spotlight, which I think is definitely a lot more “mix” than “wool”, haha! but that’s fine by me! I tossed it in the machine when I got home and it washed up beautifully, absolutely zero shrinkage and just a bit of light “fluffing”, which was equally ok with me; in fact any and all fluffing is totally welcome in all my winter clothing, thanks.

I agonised for ages over which side to use; one side was more vibrant but “flatter” with a more pronounced twill to its appearance; the other side is fluffier, and with more muted colours. I loved both sides equally! and couldn’t decide… finally I asked Craig and Cassie to choose for me. They both voted vibrant OUT, fluffy IN. Hurdle number one; cleared!

It’s a lovely fabric really, warm and cosy and with that richly colourful blocky weave, the perfect drape; and I loved the idea it for this particular jacket pattern… however! the Sydney instructions have a big bolded announcement on the first page… IMPORTANT: Not suitable for woven fabrics that fray when cut What is my chosen fabric? only like the most fray-able of fraying fabrics ever invented by mankind. Typical of me, so stubborn. I’m like… Oh, I’m not supposed to use a fray able fabric? JUST WATCH ME THEN mwahahahaha.

Solution; I edged the visible raw edges with bias binding… oh I’d bought a mid blue poplin for my bias binding, but it was a bit bright.. so I sludged * it up nicely with a bit of iDye in Brown, to make a nice deeper dirty blue; a much better colour for my fabric. I think it turned out a rather nice match!

Hurdles two and three; cleared!

new colour, with scrap of the original colour on top…

*”sludged” as a verb. along with the associated adjective “sludgy”, are technical terms used a lot around here… where Brown dye is employed liberally and frequently to tone down the overly bright colours beloved by commercial fabric designers and that form about 99.99% of commercially available fabric, so they better suit those of us who look hideous in said brights.

What else is there to say? I lengthened the sleeves to bracelet length… I really like them at this length, and even though I wasn’t very serious about it at first I absolutely love my jacket now it’s finished. It’s rather Lagenlook, yes? I’ve worn it two days in a row since I finished it… and that’s just about unheard of for me! who pretty much has to mix it up some every day… There’s just something about this rather simple yet inherently dramatic style that prompts the adoption of random flamboyant poses. My enthusiasm for photoshop going only so far, you’ll just have to imagine the appropriate backdrop in each case…

exhibit A, supersleuthy spy… the scene: nighttime; the main gallery of the Louvre in Paris, a dim light glistening off the polished parquet floorboards, while painted masterpieces look on silently

exhibit B: busy woman-about-town hailing a taxi on the streets of some mega-metropolis no, not in her garage, oh no not at all) the scene; outside the New York stock exchange, close of business, important business-y types milling about on peak- hour sidewalks

exhibit C: Victoria’s Secret model strutting down the runway.. except she forgot her wings and is instead clad in rather unsexy but warm, warm winter woollies in lieu of the cute little bejewelled bikini. Or alternatively; Rio de Janeiro’s Jesus… or a tightrope walker…

Because the wrong side/underneath of the fabric shows around the neckline I applied the bias binding on the inside of this centre back seam here instead… it’s not super visible, under my hair and all, but you know… I made a little hanging loop too…

So that’s it!… oh wait, one last thing to add; and that’s my method for dealing with a frayable fabric in a pattern that calls for un-frayable fabric. In this pattern the seaming is the simplest method possible; seams are formed by overlapping the raw edges and simply topstitching in place… and using my method you first bind the upper raw edges with bias tape, so you end up with all the seams thus highlighted throughout.

First step; overlock the raw edges of the underneath edge… the bias binding will be applied to the upper edge only.

Cut bias binding strips 2.6mm (1″) wide… this allows for a seam overlap of 1cm (3/8″) For patterns calling for a wider overlap, the same method applies, just cut the bias binding strips correspondingly wider i.e., for a 1.5cm (5/8″) overlap, cut bias binding strips to be 3mm (1 1/4″) wide.. etc.

Stitch bias binding to the upper side raw edge in a 6mm (1/4″) wide seam.

Press over and around to enclose the raw edge.

Position the upper side edge over the underside raw edge, with the overlocked edge even with the bias binding edge. This corresponds to a 1cm (3/8″) overlap, as required by the pattern.

Topstitch the two pieces together by stitching in the ditch, or if preferred, just inside the bias edge.

Topstitch a second time, with a second pass of stitching a scant 3mm (1/8″) just inside the folded bias edge of the upperside.

For the opening edges, lower edge and sleeve edges; I simply applied the same bias binding and slip-stitched it down inside just like a regular bias-bound edge…

Voila! Jacket made the same way you’re supposed to, and using the forbidden fabric to boot! Ha!

Details:

Jacket; the Sydney jacket by tessuti patterns, wool-mix blanket fabric from Spotlight
Top; twist top from Pattern Magic by Tomoko Nakamichi, green stretch, details here
Skirt; Jade skirt by Paprika patterns, in red stretch knit, details here
Tights; self-drafted, details here and my tutorial for making your own custom-fit tights pattern here
Boots; Roberto del Carlo, from Zomp shoes

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Posted in: sewing \ Tagged: cardigan, coat, daily outfit, jacket, pattern review, seams, sydney, tessuti patterns, tutorial

named maisa denim jean jacket

30/05/2017 8:06 pm \ 54 Comments \ Carolyn

O hey!

What am I doing? not much, just hanging around in my new jean jacket that until very recently was actually a few pairs of ancient old jeans!!! OHYEAH!

A jeans-to-jean-jacket project has been a long-term “thing” in my little bucket list of refashions that I have in my head. and one of the reasons I’ve been collecting my children’s old jeans for only like, forever… recently I was asked to speak at the 20th anniversary celebrations of Australian Sewing Guild, a huge honour! and in the general chit-chat heard mention of their Castaway to Couture competition… where you take some cruddy cast-off clothing and transform it into something new and spectacular of course; obviously my ears pricked up … I LOVE wardrobe refashioning!! I really the challenge and the FUN of repurposing old unwanted fabrics into something new, and I love the good self-backpatty feeling you get from being economical and not wasteful, in both the money sense as well as in the planetary resources sense as well. I’ve done quite a lot of it in my time but not for a while… I mentioned my intention to participate in the comp on IG back on the 2nd May, and knew straight away I would finally get on with my “bucket list” jeans-to-jacket. The only things I bought for this were the buttons!

before…

after…

I used the Named patterns Maisa denim jacket pattern, and three pairs of my children’s old jeans, above. Actually, technically I used only two and a half pairs of jeans, which I feel pretty good about! I picked out the most similarly coloured ones, for a cohesive look, and the widest legged one in my stash; pretty sure these were all Tim’s, he used to rock the wide legged style A LOT! I needed the wide legs so I could cut out the widest pattern pieces such as those upper sleeves. A few pieces, like the hem bands, the collar, and the back yoke were too wide, so I had to cut these laying up and down the leg.. i.e. cutting across the grain, rather than on grain.

While I lurve a patchy aesthetic to my clothing, and of course the beauty of a thing like a jean jacket is that it’s supposed to look a bit beat up and NOT a work of beautifully tailored perfection… I still wanted it to look at least a little bit intentional and not too bunged together. There was plenty of colour variation even within each single pair of jeans as well as fashionable distressing effects everywhere too, so I carefully cut so as to make sure the colour variations were matched symmetrically all over the jacket, for example; the upper arms are cut from the same area of one pair, the side fronts also both from the same area of another pair, ditto the two side backs, etc etc, so as much as I possibly could the lighter blue areas are balanced out nicely and symmetrically with the darker blue areas on the jacket.

I think this resulted in a fairly cohesive look, one that hopefully doesn’t scream “MADE FROM CRUDDY OLD JEANS” anyway.

I only kept ONE thing that even vaguely hints that this is a recycled product; for one of the cuff facings I unpicked a rear pocket from one pair of jeans and cut the facing for a cuff from this area… it’s just facing, so it’s on the inside and can’t be seen unless I roll up the cuffs. But I like that it’s secretly tucked away in there 🙂

For near total re-cycling, I even re-used the pocket lining of one of the pair of jeans for the new pocket lining of my jacket! well, it was a rather nice blue plaid and after unpicking the coin pocket there was just enough for my own new pockets.

Oh, yes, pockets! The Maisa doesn’t come with pockets like this; it does have two breast pockets but funnily enough I really prefer pockets that you can actually put things in and also take them out easily… so I decided to see if I could wrangle some hip pockets in there somehow. And I did!

I made two little welt pockets situated in the front/side front seams. On the inside, the bottoms of the pockets are sandwiched inside the button bands, for a neat look on the inside. They do work… however they’re not perfect by any means! because they do happen to have a button and a buttonhole respectively at the bottom edge of each one! hmmm, yes well… that was unavoidable. Maybe, just maybe a bit of a hacking fail, however I’m really really glad still that I’ve got them. I knew it was a risk since the cutting lines in the front of the jacket are very close to the centre front, and a pocket like this would work better if the seams were situated further out towards the side seams OR if the front closed with an open ended zip instead. Both criteria would have given a better result… BUT well, we live and learn… at the very least I can put a little bit of stuff in them, so not a complete and utter fail! I’m ok with them, and they do work! 🙂

Thoughts on the pattern: description says a classic, unlined, button-down denim jacket with collar; short and loose-fitting design with flap pockets at the front; sleeve vents and wide button cuffs, wide band at the hem. Well, hmmm, I’m not going to start ranting about my pet hate; the incorrect use of the term “button-down”. Noooo, I’m not. Apart from that! everything else about the pattern is pretty awesome. A slight negative; it is a bit more loose-fitting than I anticipated. Not 80’s loose, but still pretty loose. I’m ok with it really… I will certainly wear it anyway! it’s so comfy and feels absolutely fantastic on! plus I’m only wearing it over a thin little Tshirt here and of course a bit of oversizedness is a good thing when I’ll want to wear it over cardigans or long-sleeved woolly tops in the winter. I think when I get a little time I might have a go at re-jigging the pattern to be a little more form-fitting, for the future. I still have plenty of pairs of jeans that need refashioning, so a second, differently styled jean jacket might even happen. One which even has bigger and better functioning hip pockets!

Design decisions: all the raw edges are finished with overlocking in dark blue thread, and I double top-stitched all seam allowances down with two different colours of thread; a coppery brown, and a creamy ivory. These are both Gutermann upholstery thread, I actually prefer this to topstitching thread because A) it is tougher and B) it is less prone to fraying, so is easier to thread a needle with it. I’ve used it for all my previous jeans, as well as for all my Alabama Chanin projects too, of course. I decided to go with the two different colours, because it’s a detail I’ve noticed in some rtw jeans that I like a lot.

For the breast pockets: I originally double topstitched these in the two differently coloured threads too, however it just didn’t look very nice. To be honest, something about the curved edge; cup-shaped pocket shapes topstitched onto the front just suggested “topstitched boobs”, to me. Maybe that’s just me being weird… but I couldn’t stand it and unpicked the ivory and restitched the second line in the same copper brown as the first, as above. It’s less obtrusive now and I think looks better. Sorry, if that all sounds super weird, but just saying….

Some purely gratuitous details shots…

cuff topstitching and bar tack…

collar …

topstitching …

breast pocket…

waistband…

Details:

Jacket; Named patterns Maisa jacket, made from old pairs of jeans
Skirt; Vogue 1247, details here
Tshirt; Closet Case patterns Nettie bodysuit, white jersey, details here
Shoes; made by me and my own design, details here

location: the sundial at Cottesloe beach, Western Australia

Posted in: sewing \ Tagged: coat, daily outfit, jacket, maisa jacket, named patterns, Wardrobe Refashion

a Kelly for Kelly, and one for Cassie too…

16/10/2016 1:14 pm \ 25 Comments \ Carolyn

O hey-a! After finishing my own Kelly anorak and having it admired to the nth degree by family members, I made a few more! a pale grey one for Cassie, and I also made a deep cobalt blue one for Tim’s girlfriend Kelly. Well, it seemed only right that she should have a “Kelly” too!

I quickly snapped that top picture of an unsuspecting Cassie waiting to meet up with me in town before she noticed me heading towards her… I know it’s a bit blurry and not very posed to show off the anorak to modelly perfection, but I just really like it nonetheless… to me it attests that she’s been wearing it a tonne, in fact every single occasion that I’ve seen her in the past three weeks since I finished it and gave it to her she has been wearing it. There’s no greater compliment to a seamster than that! as well as a testament to the pattern being an absolute style winner. Kelly’s worn hers each time I’ve seen her since I gave it to her too, but I’ve not taken any pictures of her in it.. will update if she sends me one 🙂

This, taken when I presented it to her three weeks ago, and probably the only time it’s been worn with the sleeves unrolled like this. It does look a little more wintery like this. I have to admit, it does look a lot trendier and suits the casual, “heading into summer but still need a layer” look to have the sleeves rolled up.

Both the anoraks are in a nice weight cotton drill from Spotlight, in fact, all the other bits and pieces are from Spotlight too. In both anoraks, I added a few inches to the length of the body and modified the pockets to have separate pocket flaps so as to close the pockets; otherwise these are both made up exactly to the pattern.

This picture below of Kelly’s anorak has been my most “liked” picture on instagram ever! far more than anything I have ever made for myself! Interesting, no? Well, I think it is, anyway 😉 I don’t know what that “says”, if anything at all, but maybe something. Social media is such a funny phenomenon. Something else also interesting to me is how a person, any person, can have a certain number of followers and the number of “likes” never ever reaches anywhere close to that number. Honestly, I have no idea about how or why this is so, but it’s just a curious thing.

I’d got enough of the same white cord for Kelly’s anorak , but since I’d found a nice, perfectly colour-matched blue zip for hers’, and used blue thread for all topstitching and there was no other white anywhere in the jacket; the white cord looked all wrong. And naturally there’s no such thing as blue cord in the whole of Perth! so I just had to dye it. And, when your regular dye-pot is HUGE and there’s just one little length of cord what’s a mad maker to do? but of course, improvise.

Yeah, I know this looks uber-weird, but determination breeds resourcefulness… and it gave me such a laugh to watch this crazy little dye-pot bubbling on the stove! I’d tossed a pair of the same white plastic stops as I used for Cassie’s anorak in with the dye bath and it was very satisfying that they dyed up a nice deep blue too. I’d bought some silver stops just in case but fortunately the blue dye did the job beautifully 🙂

Different day, still wearing it. Yep, like I said, she’s worn it literally every single time I’ve seen her in the past three weeks. I’m calling that a ginormous WIN!

Posted in: sewing, Uncategorized \ Tagged: Cassie, Closet Case files, coat, dyeing, jacket, Kelly, kelly anorak, parka

Kelly anorak as a raincoat

06/10/2016 3:10 pm \ 51 Comments \ Carolyn

Hello! I’ve made a new raincoat! This is the Kelly anorak by Closet Case patterns, and I knew straight away I wanted to make it as a raincoat… why? well we’ve had officially the wettest winter and early spring on record, since they started keeping records, so like ever. EVER! It’s been hideous, I tell you! I’ve been wearing my old me-made raincoat all winter, but I’ve noticed that it’s not quite as effective as it used to be. I would classify it as shower-proof now, rather than waterproof *sob*. Well, it is a few years old now so possibly the fabric is becoming a little brittle with age, because I’m pretty sure it used to be lovely and watertight! Now, not so much! #sadface

So a new raincoat was needed… I really wanted a white-ish, cream or ivory one. I just love off-white and think ivory looks so chic and really smart in outerwear. Actually, I think it looks chic in anything!! #welldocumentedivoryfan I bought a plain white shower curtain from Spotlight, and gave it a little water test, posted here on my instagram account. I love how the water droplet looks like a wee little living thing, zipping about on the surface. Obviously the fabric passed with flying colours. Pretty cool, huh?

The fabric was quite see-through, and while I don’t mind a little bit of sheerness in a raincoat it really was TOO sheer, so I decided to underline fully with polyacetate lining fabric. I didn’t want white lining fabric, pure white is quite harsh for my colouring, so I chose this pale golden beige colour. I had this idea that it would tone down the pure white to a warm, off-white, oyster white, which I think my colouring needs. SO. Funny thing! To my mind, this lining fabric is a definite gold, or even brown, wouldn’t you agree? I would not call this colour “pink”… so I’m pretty surprised that the overall look of my raincoat reads pink! Don’t get me wrong, I love it! just that I did not expect this! In retrospect, I can see the colour does have a sorta peach-y look to it…but still! Golden brown under white; gives… pink?!?? Well alrighty then!!

In a raincoat, you need to seal the seams, and for my previous raincoat I used some stuff called Seam Grip, which has done a stellar job in that raincoat for years. So I was pretty sad that I couldn’t find it any more! BCF sold me some of this stuff… it’s a little different, far more liquid-y than the gel-like Seam Grip. It dries on the surface of the fabric forming a slightly hard, just slightly stiff, matte finish; similar to what you would expect if you painted clear matte nail polish on the seams. It does seem to do the trick, though only time will tell. The good thing about it is that it “disappears” on the fabric and you can hardly tell it’s there… unlike the Seam Grip which was a definite visible, shiny “smear” on the seams inside my old coat. Not that anyone ever looks on the inside of my raincoat, but you know what I mean! this new stuff is quite invisible which does look really neat and tidy. So that’s good.

Materials: my shower curtain, zip, eyelets, nylon cord, press studs and the “stops” for the cord; I bought everything at Spotlight. Seam sealer from BCF (boating camping and fishing) store. It’s intended for use on tents and sails! My shower curtain was just enough fabric for my pieces!! Just a few scant patches left enough for me to cut a few extra pocket flap pieces and after that? almost nothing leftover.

Pattern; the Kelly anorak, by Closet Case patterns, available here. Heather asked me to be a tester and I gleefully jumped right in. I really like Heather’s patterns, she has a modern young woman’s aesthetic, with clean lines and unfussy shapes. Basically, I’ve loved everything she’s designed! I made up the pattern just as is, grading out from a size 8 at the top to a size 10 at the hips, according to my measurements, and I reckon the fit is spot on, with just the right amount of ease. I believe Heather has shortened the sleeves, lengthened the body and widened the biceps a touch in the final version in response to tester feedback, however I’m happy with the fit I’ve got here!

Alterations: I just made some very minor alterations simply because it’s a raincoat:

The bellows pockets are designed to have a faux flap, so you can just shove your hands satisfyingly right in those pockets with absolute no impediment… however because mine is a raincoat and I thought functional pocket flaps would be a good idea, you know, to protect whatever is in the pockets from the rain! so I made and added extra pocket flaps on the outside. I LOVE the little double flap effect this gives! ok, maybe it looks a bit weird but I really like it!

I added press studs to the wrist cuffs but left them off the opening front zip placket; reason being that I think a raincoat doesn’t really need them and might actually be more of a nuisance than useful. You know; it starts raining, you want to just throw on your coat and just zip it up quick! bob’s your uncle. The drawstring is good enough for pulling it all in, for me.

In most cases, I overlocked all raw edges to prevent fraying then flat-felled all seams UP, which you always do in raincoats for waterproofing reasons. I remember I went into some detail on this in my previous raincoat post… it’s a little thing but I believe it does make a difference! The shadow of up-flatfelling can just be made out above on my sleeve seams and this front/front yoke seam, which is slightly curved to give some subtle bust shaping.

I hammered in two eyelets tucked up high under each arm to allow body heat to escape; this is an essential in a non-breathable, waterproof garment…

I also added eyelets and pull-cord to the hood opening because, well obviously. A raincoat hood is never merely decorative!

You know what? I’ve worn the raincoat several times, and it’s brilliant. I love it! And so far so good; it’s stood up to a a pretty heavy downpour and I’ve remained happily dry inside It is actually very warm too, which I guess is what you’d expect from a completely waterproof fabric. I’m happy!

Details:

Raincoat; the Kelly anorak, Closet Case patterns, made using a shower curtain with polyaceteate underlining.
Jeans; Morgan boyfriend jeans, Closet Case patterns, details here
Top; modified Nettie, ivory knit details here… hehe, I’ve just realised I’m wearing all Closet Case patterns, this was not planned, honest!
Shoes, designed and made by me, details here

Posted in: sewing \ Tagged: anorak, Closet Case files, coat, jacket, kelly anorak, pattern review, raincoat

khaki Tosti jacket

28/07/2016 6:38 pm \ 87 Comments \ Carolyn

Hello!
For ages I’ve wanted to replace my old beloved khaki ripstop army-style jacket… I LOVED that thing and even did a 6 different ways post on it once. At some point I decided I’d made the sleeves just a smidgeon too short so with some sadness passed it on to Cassie. Who loves it equally, and wears it often… and I found myself pining for it all over again whenever I saw her wearing it!

Finally I’ve got around to making another one for ME!

I just adore jackets with tonnes of hardware and detailing, like zips and lots of different bits and bobs and interesting pockets. So set about planning for this one to be chockablock with loads of that sort of thing. I considered using the same Burda pattern I used for the previous one, but I had to make lots of additions/adjustments to that in order to make it the complex, feature-laden army-style jacket that I wanted, which is fine! but since making that one, lots of great patterns have popped up with all those features already incorporated into the pattern. Eventually I settled upon the Tosti utility coat pattern by Yuki of Waffle Patterns, it had the detachable hood, the belt, tabs, the front zip placket for a separating zip, multitudes of pockets, in fact: everything I wanted. I was really attracted to the variety of different pockets it had and was pretty determined to use each and every one of them in my jacket. There are six different types of pockets! an inner breast pocket, a sleeve pocket, two options for breast pockets and two options for hip pockets, and I used ’em all. Cassie thought I was loopy putting four different pockets on the front of the jacket, but I stubbornly ploughed ahead because I love that mishmash look… I know you’re not supposed to do ALL of them with the pattern, but I just wanted it!

Beware; pocket overload approaching…

Breast pockets:(L) inner welt pocket with flap; and (R) inner pocket with exposed zip closure

Hip pockets; (L) bellows pocket with patch flap; and (R) patch pocket with exposed zip closure

(left) patched sleeve pocket with exposed zip closure; and (right) inner breast pocket with double welt

The fabrics: the khaki cotton ripstop was from some online fabric store in the US; and I can’t remember its name, sorry! My neighbour Meggipeg and I went in together with a joint order. The fabric was priced reasonably, but postage was horrendously and shockingly expensive… the trap!!… but at least I got the ripstop so that’s ok. One of the saddest things ever is when Spotlight ceased stocking this stuff *sob*

The plaid cotton flannelette I used for lining and all zips were from Spotlight, and I had to visit two stores to find them all! and the copper press studs were from both KnitWit and Spotlight Yes, I had to visit a coupla stores to get enough of those too! The belt buckle was harvested from an old belt. Originally, I had decided I would put thin black fleece interlining in my jacket for some warmth, but once I had the lining made up I realised I wouldn’t need it. The jacket is pretty warm enough already, and truthfully, if it was any warmer it actually wouldn’t be all that useful in our climate.

There is tonnes of topstitching all over, so satisfied that part of me that adores precision sewing. I’m that weirdo that LOVES topstitching! and am pretty much totally and blissfully happy when I’m hunched over the machine, chugging along; churning out lines upon lines of precise, neatly and evenly spaced, stitching. The wonderful thing about this ripstop is that the little squares in the weave of the fabric make precision stitching and lining up pieces to be perfectly square very very easy.

(L) belt loop; (R) shoulder tab. Press studs from kits bought in KnitWit and Spotlight

(L) collar with press studs for hood, (R) wrist tabs

No one will ever see or notice this but me, but the plaid lining matches up all the way around #patternmatchingfreak

The lining appears a bit “blowsy” in this picture, due extra ease in the lining… many of the lining/shell seams have you make folds/pleats in the lining when stitching the lining to the shell, to account for the extra length.

I’d cut a plaid lining for the hood too but decided upon a self-lined hood. Less jarring in appearance when the hood is worn down. Which, let’s face it, it most usually is!

Opening zip, and placket with press studs; (below) self-lined hood

I also made the belt, using a buckle harvested from off an old belt of Tim’s, and eyelets from a kit from Spotlight

I posted lots of these progress pictures on instagram also, so I’m sorry for the doubling up. But; you know instagram; it’s fabulous and I love it, but stuff gets “lost” in no time there since it’s not that easy going back to see things you posted a year ago…so I’m reproducing all those pictures here. I know a lot of us seamsters have migrated pretty solidly to instagram now; in fact it seems fewer and fewer people are reading blogs and it could be that blogging like this is dead or at least heading towards comatose. I mean, let’s be honest, how many people actually click over when you see the words “on the blog now, link in profile”? Precious few… and that’s just the way of things, times change, people now are of the moment and often are only interested in one quick visual; and that’s all absolutely fine and ok and completely understandable. I think though that I will still keep on with writing this blog anyway, just for my own benefit. I want to keep going for the same reasons I started it; as a record of all my sewing projects, because I can search for and look up older things up here, and you can’t really do that over on instagram all that easily.

Hmmm, well that was a bit of a diversion there, sorry! I’m writing a review of this pattern, but no point in reading it really. It’s pretty glowing, because I absolutely LOVE this pattern; I thoroughly enjoyed making my jacket, and am totally enamoured of the final product. Fair dinkum; I’m going to wear this to rags.

Fun fact; after a week of FREEZING cold weather.. today, the day after I finished this jacket and wanted to wear it for the first time; of course today was then an unseasonably warm day. Naturally!! But you know what? I wore it anyway, mwahahaha. Unco-operative weather! pfffft! see what I care! I wore it, and I roasted. And I loved every minute of it!!

Details:

Jacket; the Tosti utility jacket by Waffle patterns, khaki cotton ripstop with plaid, brushed cotton lining
striped Tshirt; self drafted, details here
Skirt; Vogue 1247, cotton corduroy, originally yellow and dyed brown, details here
Tights, self-drafted, black stretch, details here
Shoes; made by me, details here

Posted in: sewing \ Tagged: daily outfit, jacket, pattern review, Sienna, tosti jacket, waffle patterns

a shearling jacket

07/02/2016 7:25 am \ 34 Comments \ Carolyn

As sneaky-peeked previously; my shearling jacket, and man, I’m so happy with it!! It turned out just exactly how I hoped, and was the most wonderfully cuddliest, comfiest thing to have with me in our recent visit to Japan; I loved bundling up in it each day in Tokyo and used it as a snuggly rug while on the plane… without a doubt the warmest coat I’ve ever made formyself, evah. Like wrapping myself in a fluffy blanket, and I was perfectly snug enough even in the subzero temperatures of Hokkaido.

Obviously, and with my usual attention to weather appropriate sewing ahem, I chose to get started on this super fluffy thing during the most heinously hot heat wave… 42C anyone? phew, try-ons were hideous. Seriously I question my sanity sometimes. Well, lots of times actually 😉 Anyway it was all worth it in the end, since I’m quite chuffed with how it turned out.

What is it about making jackets that is so enormously satisfying and fulfilling? I don’t know exactly why, but I always find jackets, and dresses too, to a slightly lesser extent; to be the projects that give me the biggest of happy warm fuzzy buzzes… 🙂

wrt this one; well I’ve wanted to make a shearling jacket for oh, about ten years now. Ever since the first time I clapped eyes upon one belonging to our friend S; a colleague of my husband’s who is always super suave and cool and has a slightly alternative, very hip and happening taste in clothing. He owns a beautifully thick, oversized shearling jacket that he’s had for years and years and trots it out every winter once or twice. Every single time I see it I’m struck all over again by how awesome it is and have harboured a secret desire for one of my own…

I bought the faux shearling from Spotlight and the burnished, dull metal buttons from Fabulous Fabrics. The pattern is loosely based upon McCalls 5276, a pattern I’ve had for years but only muslined once and not got any further… oops! I pretty much chose the pattern just for the collar alone, since I wanted that big oversized 70’s lapel collar on my jacket, but not much else.

My alterations included;
Body and sleeves slimmed down and lengthened somewhat.
Welt pockets added as described here,
Belt and belt loops added.
I also fine-tuned the front edge and collar to have it so I could happily wear it in a variety of ways… a) open, cardigan style b) buttoned up halfway with the lapels flared, c) buttoned up to the neck with the collar laid down in a peter pan style, and finally d) with the collar turned up and buttoned up right to the very top in a funnel-neck style. Also, having the belt tightened or hanging loose adds to the wearing options too.

Because I was using a shearling obviously I left off all facings and all edges are left raw. When working out how to seam the pieces together, I checked out a pattern for a shearling jacket from one of my Burda magazines… which mentioned overlapping some edges to be joined and top-stitching the overlaps to minimise bulk. So; I overlapped the shoulder seams in this way, and also the collar-to-neckline seam. The other seams; namely the sleeve, side and armscye seams are sewn right sides together in the conventional way.

Even though I used the McCalls collar, I still cut it a bit bigger on the edges – just in case!!- never forget the golden rule of sewing… you can always cut away but you can’t add it back… EVER!!! And then trimmed it here and there to allow it to sit how I wanted it to look, to fit how I was imagining my collar. I’m particularly pleased with how the collar looks when buttoned up to the neck like this..

I made the sleeves extra long, so I could turn them up and have a woolly “cuff” on the sleeve ends, and also made wrist strips. These are sewn to the sleeve, then wrapped around and buttoned to themselves. The seam allowance of the cuffs are topstitched down for a neat look when they are turned back, and then I stitched-in-the-ditch of the sleeve seam down to the sleeve so the cuffs stay folded up permanently.

Welt pockets: my tutorial for how to do the welt pockets is here

Buttonholes: I’ve written a separate post detailing how I did the buttonholes here, so as not to clog up this post more than it is already! aaaaaagh! picture overload!!

In summary; I thoroughly enjoyed having and wearing my cosy new jacket in the subzero temperatures of Japan, and now we’re back home…. and it’s 35C… lol! so it’s off to the back of the wardrobe with this fluffy hulk of a thing. See you again next winter, you snuggly bundle of cosiness!