Tag Archives: Sienna

black Sophie bikini

black-sophie

Hello!  I’ve made this new bikini…

ccf sophie Pattern:  the Sophie swimsuit by Closet Case patterns; and yes, I did make two sets of Sophie bikinis earlier in the year when I was testing this pattern but there were things about both pairs that I wasn’t happy with.  With the pink/black one, while I really liked the bikini top, I really didn’t like how the colour blocking on the bottoms looked.  And with my grey pair, the bikini cups really were just too scant for my liking.
But mostly, it just came over me that I really wanted a black bikini this year.  I’ve also kept the pink/black top, altered it to be a halter neck; and also the charcoal bottoms and plan to continue wearing them too, mixing and matching with each other and with my new black ones here too.  Now I’ve got so much choice!

Fabric: a quite thick, black stretch polyester/lycra fabric from Fabulous Fabrics.  It has a slightly rough side which I prefer to the smooth shiny “right” side, so I used the rougher side out for my right side.  This is what you can do when you Make Your Own!

Now, sizes and fit; and this is my tip for fitting a foam-lined bra/bikini top:  Cut out the foam cups, baste together and test the fit of these on you FIRST!  Once the fit of the foam cups is perfect, repeat the same alterations to your fashion fabric…   This is the exact same advice I would give for self-fitting a foam lined bra for yourself.

My own personal fit modifications… and please skip this bit if you want! after all it’s only of interest to me, really!  For both my black, and my pink/black bikini tops, I cut the size 4 but with a size 4 cup.  I pieced together the 4/4 foam cups to check the fit.  I like the size of this cup on me, coverage-wise, but the fit was just a little “pouffy” so I unpicked and shaved off or “flattened out” some of the curve (about 4mm) from the vertical middle seam on each of the cup pieces.  Doing this gave me a really excellent fit; so then I just cut out the fabric cup pieces the same way; shaving off 4mm of curve from the inner edges of each cup piece.  Otherwise I just made them exactly to the pattern, and recycled the bikini hook closure and underwires from that grey bikini top.  That very scant grey bikini top I had made previously, was a size 4 with size 2 cups. It “fitted”, but had not enough coverage!!

dsc_0019With the bottoms; my black fabric is quite thick, almost a little scuba-like and isn’t hugely stretchy, so to be on the safe side I made size 6 bottoms grading out to an 8 at the hips.  I didn’t think  it needed a full lining but I did incorporate a “panty liner” of white stretch fabric,  sandwiched between the front and back in the joining seam and basted it along each leg edge before attaching my swimwear elastic.  I topstitched on each side of all vertical seams 1/8″ out from each side (above).  You can barely even see this with the naked eye actually because of the black-on-black! but I just wanted it to be all finished off nicely and to stylistically fit in with that same topstitching on the bikini top  🙂

Sienna doesn’t like me going in…

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… and is always relieved when I come out ok!  Craig took these pictures and it makes me laugh how I kinda look like an IronMan or something, charging athletically out of the surf, haha!  The water was cold!

pink-sophie-1

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sage skirt, sage skirt, ivory top, orange hand warmers


Hello!  I’ve got a small handful of new stuff to show off present … four things to be precise!

DSC_0006Firstly, two sage green/pale coffee, checked tweed skirts.  I inherited this beautiful quality piece of wool tweed from my grandmother’s stash after she passed away.  Although I earmarked it straight away as two skirts for Cassie and myself I just hadn’t got around to it and have sat on it all this time.  It was one of those fabrics I couldn’t bring myself to cut into… you know, inherited from Granny, plus exceptionally good quality, equals inevitable thoughts of sewing tragedy followed by eternal self-damnation…. but I’m making myself get over that nonsense nowadays.  Make it!  Enjoy it!  Live dangerously!  So, finally…  it helps too that I think Cassie has now grown into fabric of this calibre  😉 not that she didn’t deserve high quality fabrics before, but you know what I mean!  it’s very much a grown-up fabric and makes a very smart little work skirt for her now that she has a serious and professional career. The fabric really is beautiful stuff… fine and evenly woven, and there are flecks of all sorts of colours in with the sage green/coffee check… blue, red and gold, caramel brown, forest green, and a hint of purple and black.  It has no identifier on it but it wouldn’t surprise me if it was a fully English tweed.  My grandmother was very much into that sort of thing  🙂
Also, this is possibly the first time that my fabulously neutral garage wall has failed me in showing up a garment nicely!!  it blends in way too much here!  Maybe the gorgeous fabric shows up better in Cassie’s picture, below.  Here, she is wearing her skirt with this caramel coloured merino tee that I made for her previously.

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Both skirts are pretty much identical, apart from the size, of course!!  Both made using Vogue 8363; the waistbands and pocket linings are cut from cotton calico, and the lining is a beige polyacetate.  Ivory/beige invisible zips in both skirts, closure by a wide hook and eye, and I cut the linings big and eased the extra fullness into the waistband with big pleats, for some wearing ease.  As always, I like to hand-stitch the waistband facings and lining down on the inside, much neater I think and the fabric deserved a really nice finish  🙂

skirt innards

 

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Next up, a little top for Cassie!  we bought this ivory/grey cotton French terry while we were in Japan recently… and can I just say… OmigawdthisfabricisthemostGORGEOUSstuff and I would sob with pitiful happiness if only I knew I could go back to Japan again… *sigh*  When Caspatternmagic3sie moved out of home she left this fabric behind and I almost started to factor it into my own plans mwahahahahaha… but of course she hadn’t forgotten it, o no!  The reason she had deviously left it behind was so that I could make something for her with it!  HA!  She chose the wings top from Pattern Magic 3, modified so as to have the wings gone; I’ve made this for myself once previously too, and I like Cassie’s new one so much I’m now wondering why I threw mine away!  I left the lower edge raw so it curls up nicely, and the sleeve edges and neckline I overlocked the raw edge, turned it under once and did a nice discreet little zig-zag to finish it.  It looks quite nice, I think.

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Item number four, and actually this is nothing to write home about really… I refashioned the fabric from an old woollen jumper of Craig’s into cosy new hand warmers for me.  I have my nice sheen green knitted hand warmers, that I’ve been wearing all winter, but! It’s still cold, I’m bored to tears with all my winter clothes and I just really fancied a new colour.  And the jumper was such a divinely rich tangerine-y colour and going begging because it had developed a large moth hole in the front.  Also, it had felted and shrunk a little bit when some careless person had accidentally tossed it in with too hot of a wash, tut tut *whistles innocently* and I have NO IDEA who that could have been, hum de hum!!!  Anyway!!  I cut open the whole jumper, assessed for holes, and cut out two rectangles, carefully avoiding said holes and a few stains.  I kept the ribbing intact for the bottom edge, and cut holes for my thumbs, overstitched those all nice and secure, and sewed the long side up.  I put them so the seams are on the outside because I liked the bobbly look of them, then sewed a little casing in the top edge and inserted a ring of elastic so they stay up my arm.  Bam! and bob’s your uncle.  New hand warmers, and making use of an old thing that would have otherwise been tossed out.  WIN!

Details:

Item 1)

Top; Burdastyle 04/2014-111, white bobbly stuff, details here
Skirt; Vogue 8363, sage green/coffee check wool tweed
Tights; my own pattern, black stretch stuff, details here and my tute for making your own custom-fit tights pattern is here
Boots; made by me, my own design, details here

item 2)

Top; drafted by me, caramel coloured merino wool, details here
Skirt; Vogue 8363, sage green/coffee check wool tweed

item 3)

Top; the wings top from Pattern Magic 3, ivory French terry cotton knit

item 4)

Handwarmers: made from an old jumper
Tshirt; self-drafted, dyed black cotton jersey, details here
Skirt; Vogue 1247, dyed purple denim, details and my review of this pattern here
Cardigan; Miette knitted by me, details here
Cowl; knitted by me to my own design, details and my original pattern is here
Tights; my own pattern, black stretch stuff, details here and my tute for making your own custom-fit tights pattern is here
Boots; made by me, my own design, details here

orange hand warmers

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khaki Tosti jacket

sidewaffle tostiHello!
For ages I’ve wanted to replace my old beloved khaki ripstop army-style jacket… I LOVED that thing and even did a 6 different ways post on it once.  At some point I decided I’d made the sleeves just a smidgeon too short so with some sadness passed it on to Cassie.  Who loves it equally, and wears it often… and I found myself pining for it all over again whenever I saw her wearing it!

Finally I’ve got around to making another one for ME!

tosti frontI just adore jackets with tonnes of hardware and detailing, like zips and lots of different bits and bobs and interesting pockets.  So set about planning for this one to be chockablock with loads of that sort of thing.  I considered using the same Burda pattern I used for the previous one, but I had to make lots of additions/adjustments to that in order to make it the complex, feature-laden army-style jacket that I wanted, which is fine! but since making that one, lots of great patterns have popped up with all those features already incorporated into the pattern.  Eventually I settled upon the Tosti utility coat pattern by Yuki of Waffle Patterns, it had the detachable hood, the belt, tabs, the front zip placket for a separating zip, multitudes of pockets, in fact: everything I wanted.  I was really attracted to the variety of different pockets it had and was pretty determined to use each and every one of them in my jacket.  There are six different types of pockets!   an inner breast pocket, a sleeve pocket, two options for breast pockets and two options for hip pockets, and I used ’em all.  Cassie thought I was loopy putting four different pockets on the front of the jacket, but I stubbornly ploughed ahead because I love that mishmash look…   I know you’re not supposed to do ALL of them with the pattern, but I just wanted it!

Beware; pocket overload approaching…

 

Breast pockets:(L) inner welt pocket with flap; and (R) inner pocket with exposed zip closure

tosti pocketAtosti pocketB

Hip pockets; (L) bellows pocket with patch flap; and (R) patch pocket with exposed zip closure

tosti pocketC tosti pocketD

(left) patched sleeve pocket with exposed zip closure; and (right) inner breast pocket with double welt

tostipocketE tostipocketF

The fabrics: the khaki cotton ripstop was from some online fabric store in the US; and I can’t remember its name, sorry!  My neighbour Meggipeg and I went in together with a joint order.  The fabric was priced reasonably, but postage was horrendously and shockingly expensive… the trap!!… but at least I got the ripstop so that’s ok.  One of the saddest things ever is when Spotlight ceased stocking this stuff  *sob*

The plaid cotton flannelette I used for lining and all zips were from Spotlight, and I had to visit two stores to find them all! and the copper press studs were from both KnitWit and Spotlight  Yes, I had to visit a coupla stores to get enough of those too!  The belt buckle was harvested from an old belt.  Originally, I had decided I would put thin black fleece interlining in my jacket for some warmth, but once I had the lining made up I realised I wouldn’t need it.  The jacket is pretty warm enough already, and truthfully, if it was any warmer it actually wouldn’t be all that useful in our climate.

front tosti

back tostiThere is tonnes of topstitching all over, so satisfied that part of me that adores precision sewing.  I’m that weirdo that LOVES topstitching! and am pretty much totally and blissfully happy when I’m hunched over the machine, chugging along; churning out lines upon lines of precise, neatly and evenly spaced, stitching.  The wonderful thing about this ripstop is that the little squares in the weave of the fabric make precision stitching and lining up pieces to be perfectly square very very easy.

(L) belt loop; (R) shoulder tab.  Press studs from kits bought in KnitWit and Spotlight

tosti belt loop shoulder tabs

(L) collar with press studs for hood, (R) wrist tabs

tosti collar wrist tabs

No one  will ever see or notice this but me, but the plaid lining matches up all the way around #patternmatchingfreak

The lining appears a bit “blowsy” in this picture, due extra ease in the lining… many of the lining/shell seams have you make folds/pleats in the lining when stitching the lining to the shell, to account for the extra length.

lining

I’d cut a plaid lining for the hood too but decided upon a self-lined hood.  Less jarring in appearance when the hood is worn down.  Which, let’s face it, it most usually is!

Opening zip, and placket with press studs; (below) self-lined hood

tosti zip plackethood1

hood

I also made the belt, using a buckle harvested from off an old belt of Tim’s, and eyelets from a kit from Spotlight

belt

I posted lots of these progress pictures on instagram also, so I’m sorry for the doubling up.  But; you know instagram; it’s fabulous and I love it, but stuff gets “lost” in no time there since it’s not that easy going back to see things you posted a year ago…so I’m reproducing all those pictures here.  I know a lot of us seamsters have migrated pretty solidly to instagram now; in fact it seems fewer and fewer people are reading blogs and it could be that blogging like this is dead or at least heading towards comatose.  I mean, let’s be honest, how many people actually click over when you see the words “on the blog now, link in profile”?   Precious few… and that’s just the way of things, times change, people now are of the moment and often are only interested in one quick visual; and that’s all absolutely fine and ok and completely understandable.   I think though that I will still keep on with writing this blog anyway, just for my own benefit.  I want to keep going for the same reasons I started it; as a record of all my sewing projects, because I can search for and look up older things up here, and you can’t really do that over on instagram all that easily.

Hmmm, well that was a bit of a diversion there, sorry!  I’m writing a review of this pattern, but no point in reading it really.  It’s pretty glowing, because I absolutely LOVE this pattern; I thoroughly enjoyed making my jacket, and am totally enamoured of the final product.  Fair dinkum; I’m going to wear this to rags.

back1

Fun fact; after a week of FREEZING cold weather.. today, the day after I finished this jacket and wanted to wear it for the first time; of course today was then an unseasonably warm day.  Naturally!!  But you know what? I wore it anyway, mwahahaha.  Unco-operative weather! pfffft!  see what I care!  I wore it, and I roasted.  And I loved every minute of it!!

Details:

Jacket; the Tosti utility jacket by Waffle patterns, khaki cotton ripstop with plaid, brushed cotton lining
striped Tshirt; self drafted, details here
Skirt; Vogue 1247, cotton corduroy, originally yellow and dyed brown, details here
Tights, self-drafted, black stretch, details here
Shoes; made by me, details here

ootd

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blush pink twist top

blush pink top 3
Ok, so; new top.  Running down ye checklist…

It’s blush pink.  Blush pink is so hot right now!  Note; ticks “colour so trendy it hurts” box

It’s twisty. Twisted is ME!   Note; ticks “my kinda thing” box

Do I need it?  well, it’s still winter and freezing cold and the thing is; I still do not have very many long sleeved Tshirts.  If I had a wardrobe gap, and of course I don’t really have a wardrobe gap since I sew for myself… anyway, IF I had a wardrobe gap then long sleeved Tshirts would be the nearest thing to it.  Note; ticks “useful and needed thing” box.

Pattern, the twist top from Pattern Magic, the conceptual fabric and pattern manipulation book by Tomoko Nakamichi.  This is my fifth version of the twist top, it’s another one of those patterns which I seem to make up a new one every year.  Previous versions are here, here, here and here.  With the exception of version one, which was my wearable muslin and which I eventually threw out because the fabric was too thin to suit the design really, I wear all of them quite frequently in winter and LOVE them.

Fabric; a ponte, slightly sponge-y and with a crinkle-y, crepe-y textured surface, from Fabulous Fabrics.  And, even though blush pink is NOT my colour and I can already hear my mum telling me NO! Carolyn, pink does you NO favours! well blush pink is a big trend for spring and I just kinda wanted it, illogically and randomly.  Something trendy and up to the minute.  This one may not turn out to be a staple like its big sisters because, you know; Me, plus Pink, equals “oh my god are you ok? you look so tired…” but there’s no doubt it will get at least a few outings this winter and spring.  Hey, I can always dye it  🙂

pattern magicburda7863-4mccalls 5276

Details:

Top, the twist top, from the Japanese pattern book Pattern Magic, by Tomoko Nakamichi
Jeans; Burda 7863, ivory stretch denim, details here and my review of this pattern here
Shearling jacket; McCalls 5276, details here
Gloves; knitted by me, details here
Socks, knitted by me, details here
Desert boots; made by me, details here

blush pink top back

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sophie swimsuit

grey sophie frontccf sophieI was thrilled when Heather of Closet Case Files asked me to test her fabulous new swimsuit pattern, the Sophie swimsuit, named after the elegant and tres creative Sophie, of Ada Spragg. Thanks so much Heather!  I’m pretty chuffed that she continues to even notice an old hag like me.

The Sophie swimsuit is a structured bikini top optionally underwired and paired with high-waisted bottoms, or alternatively the same structured cup top as part of a one piece, boy-legged suit.  I think it’s classy, with a modest retro-style chic, and it’s a beautifully designed and drafted pattern.

I’m also enormously impressed, not merely with the Sophie pattern although that in itself is pretty damn fantastic effort because it’s quite a complex pattern…  in addition to that Heather is offering a package deal;  the pattern, swimsuit kits with fabric, lining and all the bits and bobs you need to put it together, AND an online workshop; all designed to take the legwork out of tracking down all those bits and pieces you need, and to ease newcomers to swimwear-sewing painlessly into the whole process. It’s an absolutely brilliant effort.

Anyway, so this is me, modelling my two new bikinis on the delightfully sunny beaches of south-western Australia…  HA!  Obviously it’s the middle of winter here, and while it really was a beautifully sunny day and was actually quite pleasant out of the wind in the shelter of the rocks, where I am in the top picture; on the beach itself it was just a tad chilly mind you, just a teeny tiny tad… (read; utterly freezing)

sophie swimsuit backDid I dive right into that invitingly turquoise water for a frolicsome dip?  NO!!!!  Since I’m the wussiest wuss that ever wussed I just got my pictures super fast and then threw on my jeans and thick woollen cardi again pretty quick!    You can see that turbulent water and my crazy hair, it was blowing a freaking gale and the waves were booming and thundering onto the sand like the proverbial white stallions.  I do love the beach in any and all weather, including wintery and wild; I love the sparkle of sunlight on the water, the swirling foamy shallows, and the crashing of the surf.   Well, perhaps more so when I’m warmly rugged up snug as a bug in a rug, of course.  Sienna loves the beach too, but it’s alright for her, in her thick fur coat!  hehe, the things we do…

Anyway, on to the SophieS; yup, I’ve made two… both bikinis.  It’s been an awfully long time since I’ve worn a bikini, eeek!  but I chose view B because I’m still more of a two-piece bathers person than a one-piece-r.    There’s the charcoal version at top, and also the pink/black colour blocked version, which was made first.  Tester driven feedback called for a change in the shape of the cup so the second, charcoal, one is closer to the final version of the pattern.

Also; I should mention that in the final version of the pattern, the bikini bottoms have a slightly higher rise than mine do here, sitting just at/slightly above the natural waist.

sophie topsIt’s funny; when I finished the pink/black one I almost immediately took a violent dislike to the colours I’d chosen…   It seemed a bit… I dunno, young and sporty? or something.  Then I made the charcoal version.  Which I really adore.  When I took out the pink/black one again, to take photos in it, of course, you know the story, it didn’t look quite so hideous after all.  I actually took quite a shine to it again.  The pink seemed a bit warmer and less Barbie than I’d remembered it.  I decided I might even like it better than the charcoal one.  I don’t know.  Oooh, I’m torn!  Either way, I expect both are going to get worn this summer  🙂

sophieHeather has introduced her own sizing chart for the pattern, which I think is a pretty good idea.  You know, when you’re making something and you sometimes get too lazy or too cold  to disrobe for proper measurements, and go with the same size you always take, or worse; what you think you are.  I do find that when faced with an unfamiliar sizing chart, you’re more inclined to get out the tape measure and do a properly slow and careful remeasure, to determine your correct size.  Which I did.  So saying that, how do I feel the cups fit?  well they both fit pretty good.  Though I do feel like the cup on my charcoal one, while it fits me;  is just a smidge on the scant side for my tastes, if that makes any sense.  I believe Heather has upsized them on the final version, which I reckon is a good call.  I am small up top but I still kinda like to have lots of coverage there, for personal preference.  I might remake the charcoal bikini top, following the new sizing of the final version of the pattern.  But maybe not ’til summer!

grey sophie backFabrics and bits and bobs: the fabrics are from Fabulous Fabrics; who do get some very nice swimwear fabrics in stock during the season.  I bought all these fabrics in previous summers, stocking up during sales.  Stashing strategically, as you do  😉  Other supplies from my fast dwindling MakeBra basic kits; the underwires, under wiring channeling and the foam for the cups.  The swimwear elastic, plastic swimwear hooks for the straps and back closures are from Spotlight.

sophie swimsuit

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winter boots

winter bootsI MADE THESE!!!

OK, maybe I’m a bit biased here, but to my eyes these are just about the most beautiful things in the world right now!!

So I finally did it! and I’m even extremely happy with them to boot (haha!) and after a month or so of mental anguish and metaphorical hair-pulling even I can find almost no fault with my (eventual) finish.  It’s true there were some struggles along the way yes; but I’m so happy now, and those dark moments have faded away in the happy, warm fuzzy pink glow in which surrounds me right now.  I even dressed today to match it  😉

winter boots1So, the process…

boot pattern

Pattern; self-drafted.  I did buy some long black zips, but eventually decided upon a design which I could just pull on, no zip required, and drafted a pattern to accommodate this…    Before starting, I padded my lasts with a couple of pairs of thick winter socks so as to give my foot a decent amount of wearing ease and allow enough room for my own feet to be well sock-ed too! and taped them down firmly with masking tape, to protect them from the boot-making process, and made my pattern to fit the padded last, obviously.

padded lasts

Materials; the upper is black vinyl, from Clark Rubber,  this comes in two types and I spent a bit extra and bought the UV resistant kind that is highly resistant to whatever the weather may throw at it; sun or rain.  Well, since I plan to be wearing them outside most of the time, and given the amount of work you put into making a pair of boots, the small extra cost is completely justified, in my opinion!

winter boots lining
The boots are fully lined in faux chocolate-brown suedette (above), bought originally in the Fabric Store in Melbourne, and which I have used to line nearly all my shoes so far.  It’s the same stuff I used for my chocolate suedette top, here.

For the soles and heels, I used rubber matting from Bunnings. I cut these to size, and sanded each surface well before glueing them together using contact gel adhesive, also from Bunnings. Inside the boot, I also glued an insole cut from cork matting, and then over that, is laid a foam inner sole (Coles) which I’ve covered with the chocolate brown suedette, to match the interior. Not that you can see it easily, down in the dark innards of the boot, but still

winter boots buckle

Decorative details: I had “finished” the boots, and they were kinda plain, and I decided they really desperately wanted some hardware, and maybe some straps.  I then planned on some “belts” around each boot with buckles… but unfortunately cool buckles are pretty much impossible to find around about here.  Everything I saw was either diamante or leopard print plastic and without exception totally hideous.  In the end, I compromised with these nickel finished swivel clips to close the “belts” and you know what? I love them SO MUCH and am actually super-happy I couldn’t find the buckles I originally wanted after all!  I bought these from Homecraft Textiles.  The three “belts” were all sewn on by hand, after the boots were finished.   And before you ask; yes, this was pretty difficult.  But I reckon it was worth it!  Also, I became acquainted at this stage with how very warm the boots were going to be, even before wearing them, since my hands just about broiled while shoved down in the boots, doing this sewing.

Making the boots…

winter boots half done
I made the lower part of the boots first, like sort of ankle boots, and did all the lasting and constructing the toe puffs and heels counters using stiff cotton denim with some stretch to it, and PVA glue, just exactly the same way as previously described in the making of my paprika desert boots here.

winter boots innards

My vintage wooden lasts are wonderful things, but because they have a metal plate on the bottom it means you can’t nail into them.  So, I pulled in the well-glued up (PVA glue) sides in under the shoe by stitching it all in, in like a cobweb of back and forward stitching, using thick strong Gutermann’s upholstery thread (above).  You have to do this reasonably quickly, before the glue hardens and dries too much, but it’s not actually difficult.  Then I left it all to dry thoroughly, before skiving and trimming much of the bulky folds away underneath.  After this, I glued the sole underneath with contact gel adhesive, and glued and nailed the heel into position, just as for all my previous shoes

Once this was finished, I had two completed ankle boots (above), and it was time to add the “calf-tubes”.  Yes, I expect there is some proper name for those, but that is how I thought of them!  I found it was impossible to machine stitch anything beyond this stage, with my little home sewing machine, and don’t have access to a shoe-maker’s sewing machine, so all the rest of the construction I sewed by hand.  I sewed the lining and outer tubes around the top of the “ankle boots” in a way as to enclose the seam within the two layers, then  hand stitched the tubes up the centre back seam using a leather needle and tough Gutermann’s upholstery thread.  I used back-stitch for the calf-tube to the ankle boot seam, and ladder stitch for up the centre back seam for this.

winter boots sewing

half sewn up…

winter boots sewing 1

Oh, I did manage to sew the upper “hem” by machine! although this was not particularly easy, what with the thick fabric and the boot and all.  I cut the lining to sit neatly underneath the hem, glued the layers together as best as I could, then glued the upper vinyl hem down, and stitched it.  It’s doesn’t look like it would be hard to sew the top hem by machine but just trust me, a boot is a far from manoeuvrable thing to sew.  The final sewing step was to add those three decorative “belts” per boot, as described above.

winter boots heel sandedwinter boots heel1

Then for the finishing off!  I’d cut my heels carefully, but they were still a bit uneven.  In previous pairs of shoes I’ve sometimes left the unevenness, because I kinda liked the randomness, but in this case I wanted a more smart finish… I sanded the heels till they were all beautifully smooth, and then “blacked” the heels and the sole edges (above).  This also camouflaged some stray small blobs of glue that were here and there, that I hadn’t managed to get off with turps.  The very final step was to varnish the heels and soles,  so they’re all nice and shiny and clean and, dare I say it? almost rtw looking?!

winter boots 4

And done!!

winter boots 2sorry for the picture overload, but honestly; I’m so proud of those boots I could burst!

winter boots 3

Details:

Boots; MADE BY ME!!!!!!!!
Jumper; Jo Sharp design and mohair, knitted by me, all details here
Skirt, Paprika patterns Jade skirt, in burgundy silk/cotton knit, details here
Tights; self-drafted, black poly stretch, details here, and my tutorial for making your own custom-fit tights pattern is here

Sienna is thrilled with my boots too; you can tell, yes?  😉

winter boots ootd

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Morgan boyfriend jeans

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morgan jeansI’ve made some boyfriend jeans!  Hehe, I actually made these aaaaaaaages ago! and have been dying for the pattern release, just so I can wear them more often.  They’re so comfy and easy to wear,  they’re my current favourites.   I really really love them  🙂
morganjeans side

Pattern; the Morgan jeans by Closet Case patterns, named for the lovely Morgan of crab and bee.  They are a mid-rise, button-flied, slightly cropped leg jean with a skim-the-body fit *deep breath*  Wow, there are so many descriptors attached to jeans now, yeah?  Jeans are no longer just “jeans” but there are so many defining clarifications that come with each style.  These are quite different from any of the jeans I have made before in shape and fit, but of course they are still “just jeans” in the sense that they have all the features of jeans beloved to us all, like the 5-pockets for example.  Heather kindly asked me to test the pattern, and this is my first go, off the bat.   Apparently the leg has been widened slightly since I made these.

morgan jeans frontFabric; these are designed for a non-stretch denim, so I found a nice, crisp, deep dark charcoal cotton denim, mid weight and with absolutely zero stretch to it in Spotlight.  No stretch, and the jeans still feel fantastic! I also used coppery-brown Guttermann’s upholstery thread for the topstitching, and copper-y coloured jeans buttons, all from Spotlight.  The grey cotton for the pockets and waistband lining is the same fabric as my grey gardens dress (Fabulous Fabrics).

My first button fly!  I wasn’t sure if I’d like it at first, I thought it would be bulky; but now I’ve got it and have worn it a few days, I realised my fears were unfounded, and I really do like it.  Also, it’s nice to have something a bit different, yeah?

fly

Pockets, with lots coppery/brown topstitching  #topstitchingporn

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Leather patch on the back.  I cut this from one of the last scraps of leftovers from my Danish suede jacket.  I forgot to add it at first, doh! but it does make them look just a little more ready-to-wear, no?

Alterations: initially that waistband was quite gape-y in the small of my back, a usual thing for me.  I’m quite hippy, I suppose!  so I took in several inches off the waist at the centre back, tapering out in a straight line out to the hips.  And shortened the waistband at centre back, correspondingly.   This is my usual adjustment to fix that problem for me, and worked just fine for these too.  I didn’t alter the position of the pockets, so on my jeans they are situated a little closer and more slanted inwards to the centre back seam than the pattern intended, but I thought they looked ok and didn’t need moving.

hadn’t added the patch at this stage…

back

I love how they look rolled up a coupa rolls, this makes them three quarter on me and I really love this, a little bit 50’s capri pant-like. I love how they show off a pair of little lace-up shoes.  Hehe it’s probably a bit obvious from my shoe-making efforts that I’m SO right into the flat lace-ups at the mo!   btw, those red sandshoes in my beach pictures below? are fully dead now, (sob)  I’m pretty sad about that, I thought they were cute. #needmoreredshoes

Top picture is my current outfit of the day… I actually put on something else first thing today, inwardly wanting to wear my Morgan jeans and moaning once again that I couldn’t yet, because you know, the Reveal and all.  And then I saw on IG that Heather had released the pattern.  So I could wear them, yay!  Other outfit sloughed and abandoned, Morgan jeans donned with joy and delight  🙂

This style is perfect for the weather we are getting right now; which is starting to get a little crisp in the morning but still quite warm during the day and not cold enough yet for socks!  Not too hot, not too cold, but just right.  These are going to get worn a tonne …

Details:

Jeans; Morgan jeans by Closet Case patterns, non-stretchy cotton denim
Top, (white) loose drapey top from drape drape by Hisako Sato, cotton jersey, details here  (black) self-drafted Tshirt, details here
Raincoat (top picture); made by me, self-drafted, details here
Shoes; red sandshoes (below), made by me here, yellow shoes (top picture), made by me here

morganjeans

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light as a cloud

floatytop1

stylish dress bookI’ve made a softly floaty blouse  🙂  of course just as summer is on the way out… o no, wait, actually summer is over! However we’re still getting days of 40C.  Not that I’m complaining, mind you.  I love the warmth!  Only thing is that I’m getting tired of all my summer things thus the decision to make a new summer thing, ha.  #seasonallyinappropriatesewingforthewin  It’s light and pretty and easily breezy; and delightfully cool.  I fully expect the weather to turn cold now.

floatytop3

Pattern; based upon dress R from the Stylish Dress Book, by Yoshiko Tsukiori.  I’ve always had luck with the patterns from this book.  But this time … well the pattern is for a short dress, and it’s quite pouffy too, and in this particular fabric it looked just like a nightie! eeeek! this fabric is far too lovely to be a nightie! So I gave it just a little chop and now it’s a top.   Much much better like this… I had also added some rather interesting gathered side pockets to the dress and managed to keep them perfectly intact.  I pinned this picture of a gathered pocket a while ago and have been itching to have a go at incorporating it into a design at some time… And I have! with an added drawstring.  I decided the drawstring was needed with this embroidered fabric, it felt kind of lacking without it.

gathered pocket

Fabric; a rather gorgeous fully embroidered Japanese silk/cotton, bought from the remnants table at Potters Textiles, years’ ago.  Probably about four years ago.   Fully embroidered with a floral motif, the background is very light and fine, quite sheer actually; so a full and voluminous design is just the ticket.  The yoke and bias cut ties on the pockets are ivory crepe from Fabulous Fabrics, cut from the leftovers of my studio faro dress.

floatytopback

Modifications; Shortened to be a blouse.  Also the front and back are supposed to be gathered into the yoke… I tend to steer clear of gathering.  Instead I folded the excess width into box pleats.  There are four at the front, evenly spaced and close to the centre front, and one in the centre of the back.  And I added those two gathered pockets at the sides.  I love the design of these; interesting and practical, and pretty too without being excessively twee, and they’re a little bit different from your average inseam pocket and patch pocket.  I think they add a certain visual “something” to the top that it needed.

I’m thinking of writing a tutorial to show how I made them…  coming soon  🙂

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stylish dress book DSC_2624burda7723-1

Details:

Blouse; based upon dress R from the Stylish Dress Book by Yoshiko Tsukiori, embroidered ivory silk/cotton
Shorts; Burda 7723, green cotton gingham, details here and my review of this pattern here
Thongs, made by me, details here

floatytop4

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