Tag Archives: Dyeing

rusty lace Cissy dress (Homer and Howells)

I’ve made this rather awesome new dress, if I say so myself!!   Paprika!!  Rust!!  Kinda… burnt orange/dark red/burgundy/wine!!!  It has a strongly autumnal-flavour in colour and feel, but actually it’s beautifully cool and breezy enough for summer too.  I wore it today and it was super comfortable in spite of the 38C heat.  Phew!

The pattern is the Cissy dress pattern by new company Homer and Howells; I discovered and started following them on instagram a few months ago and was thrilled when they asked if I would like to try out this particular design… because I knew it would make a lovely summer frock  🙂

I had this glorious richly-coloured lace that’s been languishing in my stash for hmmm goodness knows how long … I can barely remember its purchase!  I’m pretty sure I bought it at Tessuti’s in Melbourne on one of my holidays over there with Mum and Cassie.  Like about 95% sure.  #youknowthingsarebadwhen…  It’s one of those fabrics I’ve taken out and petted every now and then, even laid out pattern pieces on it before having second thoughts, but finally I felt this particular project was just the right thing.

The pattern is an exceptionally easy thing to make.  It does have pockets, beautiful great big pockets too, absolutely perfect; but in the spur of the moment I just couldn’t think of a way of inserting them nicely or invisibly enough into my underlined lace dress, so left them out this time.  Who even am III????!! but really.  I’m a little ashamed I didn’t think a bit harder, because right now I can think of two separate ways I could have made it work, hmmm.  But I’m feeling too stressed out to unpick all that overlocking to put some in right now.  Maybe later.  After the wedding…  🙂

Of course I needed to underline, because it’s lace, and therefore completely see-through.  I had a length of white cotton in my stash too, inherited from Mum’s stash; that was just the right sized piece, and I thought the white underneath would be really cool.

But you know what? it wasn’t … when the dress was finished, I decided the white cotton was actually really awful; just too harsh of a contrast.  So I dunked the completed dress into a dyepot of mixed orange/red/brown/hot pink dyes.  And now I think it’s lovely!  the underlining is almost the same colour now, just a shade lighter than the lace, and I think absolutely perfect.  I’m really going to enjoy wearing this chic thing!!

Notes; I shortened the sleeves by about 9cm, and the dress by about 17cm from the top edge.  At full length, the dress was just a little too “granny-ish”, and yes I know I AM now an actual granny! but there’s granny-chic which is cool; and then there’s just “granny” but not in a chic way.  The lace that I chose, combined with the long skirt tipped the original look into the latter but I do really love it at this slightly shorter length!  I actually do have fabric in mind for this pattern at the designed-for longer length, but that will probably not happen until after Cassie and D’s wedding… ha!  I have so much to do!!!  #notevenlaughing  #cryingjustabit #ineedaholiday

I managed to incorporate the natural scalloped lace edge into the hemline, which I think is super pretty! but sadly didn’t have enough lace do the same for the sleeves.  They’re just hemmed.

Details:

Dress; Homer & Howells Cissy dress pattern, lace with dyed cotton underlining
Shoes; caramel/ivory clogs are made by me, and my own design, all details here. White shoes are also made by me, at a shoe camaraderie workshop, all details here

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baby Arthur

Our new baby grandson is here!!!  We’re so excited and thrilled with him, he’s such a beautiful baby boy, speaking in a totally non-biased way, of course!!   note: so clearly above photo is NOT of new baby grandson…  sorry!  But thanks to R2D2 for modelling the new beanie!!

I just had to make a few new things to welcome our family’s new bubby…

Items one and two are my favourites, obviously!   I knitted a little yoda beanie, based upon this terrific free pattern by Shinah Chang on her FuzzyCloudDesigns blog.  I used the pattern for the ears, but adapted my own for the beanie itself, my yarn was completely different and with a completely different gauge from the recommended.  I think from memory I cast on 60 stitches? and for the crown I did the cast off in a 6 segment fashion. In other words, 1 per 10 stitches in the first cast-off row.

The yarn is from the big bag I picked up off a neighbour’s verge recently.  I cannot believe someone was throwing away so much great yarn!

I made the matching onesie using my current favourite onesie pattern, Burda 9434.  I made it using a scrap of cream coloured cotton jersey, and white plastic snaps, that I bought along with their matching tool from Spotlight.  I don’t know why I haven’t used these before! because they really are far superior to the metal versions…  I’m only sad that the white plastic did not take up the dye, like AT ALL.  Oh yes, I obviously dyed the cream onesie to make it motley brown, like Yoda’s robes.  I used dark brown thread so it would match the final colour.

I think it turned out super cute!

The other onesie is pretty plain, and in retrospect rather boring, it’s saving grace is that it’s for size 3 months, and I’m pretty sure Tim and Kelly have basically hardly anything in this size yet.  So it will come in handy  🙂

omigosh, he’s really so beautiful!! thanks Tim for giving me permission to post this!!  I’ll never ever tire of watching it…  🙂

In complete random and unrelated-to-sewing, life stuff; Dolly Parton- yes, THE Dolly Parton! – set the following challenge meme and I had great fun fulfilling it on behalf of Mischka.  Behold, the cuteness!!

 

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a celestial dress, and some other things

So, I made a dress… or something?!  I’m not 100% sure about this one.  Is it a dress? or a nightie? or maybe a choirboy/celestial angel robe?  The jury is out!

One thing I am sure of is that it’s delightfully floaty and breezy to wear.  And very comfortable.  Another thing I’m sure of is that on its own it’s scandalously see-through… ! so if I’m going to wear it out of the house it requires at least a petticoat or something.  Fortunately, I made a beautiful Ruby slip once upon a time, a few years ago, from ivory crepe.  I actually wear this slip TONNES, and once again it’s come to my rescue.  Thank you Ruby slip!  maybe I should make some sisters for you!  Take the pressure off!

The pattern I used for the new dress is dress R from the Stylish Dress Book by Yoshiko Tsukiori, and the fabric is a lovely ivory/cream coloured micro-pleated silky stuff from Fabulous Fabrics.  For the yoke, which needs to be more stable and “solid”, I used a small scrap of old jeans, leftovers from the small stack that have previously been harvested to produce this dress and these jeans too.  To keep up with the recycled jeans vibe, I added double rows of topstitching to all the joins etc, using the same coppery-brown Guttermann’s upholstery thread that I’ve used on previous jeans like my beloved Morgan boyfriends.  The yoke lining is the striped shirting cotton that I used for Sandi’s Perth blouse and for Ms Summer’s summer frock.

I’m also wearing with it my matching denim shoes, also made from old jeans #oldjeansfanfromwayback

oh hey gorgeous girl!

I actually had quite a bit of leftover of the pleated silky stuff, so at the same time I traced out the size 8 of the same pattern and whipped up a quick top for Cassie too.

looks a bit small here but it’s far more oversized on my petite little daughter

Actually, this top started out as a dress too, but surprisingly she wasn’t into it as a dress.  I’d gone to great lengths to find a piece of matching cream-coloured fabric for the yoke for hers, and was very pleased to unearth an old cushion cover of a really nice cream coloured cotton damask from my stash.  Normally, Cassie prefers, nay demands! cream- or ivory-coloured tops, so I was a little nonplussed when she suggested the yoke be dyed!  Who is this person and what have you done with my daughter?!  However I could appreciate that the all cream number as a dress was a little, um choirboy, thus the snap decision to lop off the bottom to make it a top.  Fortunately she was satisfied!

 

Soooo, what else have I been up to?  Well, my friend L had requested that I whip up a simple little dress for her, a replica and replacement for a favourite that had worn out.  She bought the green floral from Fabulous fabric, and I found some black silk for the tie.  I really enjoyed making this for her, though the silk I used for the tie was, no joke, the worst stuff I’ve dealt with for a looooong time.  It was so hideously fray-tastic, and just that little bit too grippy to slide right side out very easily.  It took me almost as much time to turn out the tie as it did to draft the dress pattern and make it up!  Exaggerating?  not by much!

I don’t have a picture of her wearing it, but she did have it on for one of our recent morning teas and she looked gorgeous!

again, looks way better on L…

What else have I been up to??

Well, I’ve been wanting to do this for a while…. my pale grey Acton dress has been worn a lot, but I’d been starting to eye it lately with a jaded, “meh” eye.  SO I took the plunge.  Or, I should say, my dress did.  In to the dye-pot it goes!  Et voila!!  Now I’m newly enamoured with it all over again!  It’s just like having a new dress!!  It’s interesting to me how the different components either took or didn’t take, the dye… For instance, the linen shell of course took up the dye superbly, but the grosgrain ribbon shoulder straps did not.   The zip pull even took on a shade of pink, but the zip itself; well, zip.  The body part of the lining dyed up very intensely, but the bodice part did not!

who is that short-haired doggie?!!   she loves her new summer ‘do!!

Is that all?  Finally, I believe it is!

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Elementary, my dear Sherlock

Yes, I know; a complete mis-quote of an already mis-quote… *braces oneself for outraged Holmes enthusiasts*

But wot is this new thing I’m wearing ‘ere then?!  Is it a jacket…?  no, a cape…?  some tweedy, distinctly Holmes-esque thing, somehow exuding English-ness, an air of briskly strolling in the country, of hounds-at-dawn, roaming in-swathes of fog and mystically swirling mist, stalking the streets of London or out on the Baskerville moors?  Fittingly, I’m accompanied here by my very own hound, who while certainly a fearsome and diabolical creature at times, is however sadly lacking a Baskerville lineage.

So, I was mindlessly browsing Le Internet, checking out new-to-me pattern companies, something I am wont to do, randomly, late at night and way past my bedtime,… and clicked Add to Cart on the Cape-Sleeved Jacket by Trend Patterns.  Followed by… Purchase.  So daring!!

It’s a rather interesting and lovely style, not something I’ve seen anywhere else: a longline open jacket with notched collar and interesting “sleeves” that are more like an intriguing hybrid of sleeves and cape.  I searched my stash for a suitable victim, and unearthed a grey/black houndstooth-y check suiting; given to me yonks ago by ?I think? Mum, though I’m not totally sure.  It had exactly the right weight and style for this design, but the colour was pretty dead and cold and flat and looked absolutely terrible on me… so I squandered more time than I care to admit to, attempting to dye it.  It was a rather large piece, so I’d started out leaving it to soak cold in a large tub of yellow dye.  This had almost no effect, so I added orange for synthetic fabrics.  This had a tiny teeny little effect.  So then I dried the fabric, and cut out the jacket pieces, which made for a smaller bulk of fabric for the dye pot, and boiled it all up with the same dye mix.  Finally; SUCCESS!!!!

helping…

from left; original colour… after soaking… after boiling

The new shade of tobacco was rather warm and pleasing, and deemed acceptable.  Of course the big problem about dying pieces, already cut up; as opposed to one single piece of fabric, is that the pieces frayed a bit, and also got stretched out and distorted somewhat in the boiling/dyeing process, and so I’m not 100% confident that my final jacket is all that perfect or beautiful… but I did my best!  carefully steaming everything back into the shape of the intended pattern piece.

 

Lining;  fully lined with chocolate polyacetate lining fabric, from my stash, probably originally from Fabulous Fabrics since it’s a really nice quality.

below; see how the front armhole is open right up to practically shoulder level? I think it’s worth pointing this out since I actually had no idea it was like this from the line drawing and remained ignorant right up until it came time to add the cape facing…

That’s not a criticism btw, just an observation.  I really love my new Sherlock Holmes jacket, and I really loved making it too; but I’ve admit; it was not a particularly easy project.  Even given the fact that I complicated things for myself a. dyeing and b. deciding I absolute HAD to have in-seam pockets – which were a big success in the end if I say so myself.  I’m so glad I put them in.  Actually I can’t imagine a jacket without pockets of some kind.

How did I put in my pockets?  so I remembered to take a few pictures but not many, so hopefully my written explanation will suffice…  I cut the front armhole piece (below, at left) and the front panel (below, at right) as pictured; and in addition, a pocket opening facing piece (below, middle) with the same upper edge as the slanted edge of the front panel (at right)  I also cut a pocket lining (not pictured) from the same chocolate polyacetate lining fabric used throughout the jacket…  it’s the same size and shape as the pocket bag extension (at left) and with a slanted top edge equivalent to that of the pocket opening (at right)…

the pocket opening edge is that slanted edge showing out from under the square inner edge of the paper pattern piece, and that little extra piece is the pocket opening facing.  The facing is interfaced (see below), stitched along that slanted edge leaving a 1cm free at either edge of seam, and under stitched.  I cut a pocket lining using the same chocolate lining fabric that lines the whole jacket and stitched this on to the lower edge of the pocket facing.  Then stitched the pocket and pocket linings together around the long curved pocket edge.  The remainder of the jacket construction proceeds as normal, and the pocket is nicely hidden away between the jacket outer and lining

So; what was tricky about making this jacket…?  well, the steps are illustrated with photographs, not drawings; so if you’re the kind of person who often goes on the illustrations then it’s not always clear which pattern pieces or which seam you might be looking at in this photograph or that one….  and there are 27 un-numbered pattern pieces…  Maybe I’m just dumb, or losing it or something, but I’ve been sewing clothes for myself for over forty years and there were bits where I was scratching my head and had to read and re-read over a couple of times to “get” it.

It’s also pretty important to mark the marks, notches and dart lines carefully and securely.  As far as this project goes, this is where my brilliant plan to dye my fabric pieces fell apart a bit since a lot of these little marks were dislodged and lost while dyeing, and notches disappeared in fraying edges, and it was pretty hard to re-instate everything accurately.  To be honest, there were several times I felt like heaving the whole lot in the bin and starting over anew, with fresh new fabric, particular since I hadn’t even liked my fabric all that much in the first place!!

I think numbering the pattern pieces would have been a HUGE help, and then to use those numbers in the instructions.  Another thing, the instructions are…. kinda sparse.  The term “bag out” is used several times …  I’ve always been a little thrown by the term”bag out”.  I mean, I know what it is… basically just another way of saying stitch the outer and lining layers together.  See, I grew up under the tutelage of the long-term pattern companies like Vogue, McCalls and Burda; and “bag out” is not a phrase that ANY of them EVER use, as a rule.   Also, “bag out” is incidentally Australian slang for picking on someone, like rudely giving them a really hard time, so seeing it pop up in sewing instructions is always a moment for pause 😉

After all this; I actually quite happy with how my jacket turned out, and am even little keen to make it up again.  I think my attempts to dye the fabric just made the project a whole bunch harder than it needed to be, and I’d like to give the pattern a second chance, and to do it properly, make a really good and proper tailoring job of it next time.  I would also like to add a few more pockets, to the inside and the lining, like a mens’ suit jacket has.

    

Details:

Jacket; TPC13, the Cape-sleeve Jacket by Trend Patterns, grey tweed overdyed with orange dye
Shirt; the Closet Case patterns Carolyn pj shirt, white cotton, details here
Skirt; Burdastyle 10-2010; 136 (the Karl Lagerfeld skirt), in black suiting, details here
Tights; my own custom fit pattern, details here
Shoes, designed and made by me, details here

My cape-sleeve jacket feels so very very Sherlock Holmes to me that I couldn’t resist just popping over to London for a more appropriate photoshoot location….

jk, of course.  Hurrah for the wonders of photoshop!

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totally local, totally natural, from head to toe

A person could be forgiven for thinking that I had abandoned my totally local, 1 year 1 outfit project, since there has been no mention of it here for months!… *blush* however, it has been plodding along, slowly but surely, and is now FINISHED!!!!  Hurrah!  At last!

The concept: last year Nicki from this is moonlight conceived the very interesting 1 year 1 outfit project and invited me to take part with her… the idea was that you make an outfit using ONLY local materials and primary supplies grown and/or sourced in your own area.  Well you know how weak at the knees I go for a dressmaking challenge! and the more difficult the better!  Several of us here in Perth took part last year; Nicki, Sue, Megan and me.  Sue, Megan and I met up for a hilarious photoshoot in our outfits one day last February; it was so much fun! and we all had plans for this year too.

from left: Megan, Sue, and me… the links in this post go to everyone’s individual posts about their outfits

So yes, I was all enthusiastic… however!  It really is a difficult challenge, far more difficult than you might think! and though I made a good start with dyeing some yarn early, my other challenge, my Year of Handmade, has consequently swept me away with its even higher degree of difficulty … I’m not whinging, ’cause I really do like challenges honestly! however I’ve struggled with everything this year a bit and it’s taken a while for me to get my groove on.  Fortunately Nicki announced a March deadline recently, which lit a fire under me.  I got cracking, and got finished!!!!

Thoughts going in: I loved my first 1 year 1 outfit project from last year; although I confess I’ve barely worn it at all!  Reason being that while I think my embroidered felt is ethereally beautiful, at the same time it is fairly fragile and can only stand up to light wearing on special occasions.  So my major priority for this year’s outfit was casual wearability; something that I could toss on and wear on a daily basis without fear of ruining it.  I also wanted it to try out some natural dyeing techniques.

What did I make: a simple knitted dress and a matching beanie, showcasing my dyeing experiments in stripes.  I just wanted my hard-won colours to shine on their own merits equally without competing with each other, and individual stripes separated by the blankness of the natural undyed ivory just seemed a good way to accomplish this.

My shoes, bag and underwear were all made for last year, and also comply with the rules of the challenge.

Sources; I obtained all my handspun merino yarn from Bilby Yarns, which is an absolute treasure trove for West Australians interested in local wool products and supplies.  My yarn is from Western Australian Merino sheep; born, grown and shorn right here in the south-west of WA.  The raw fleece is transported to Bilby Yarns in Willagee, where local spinning enthusiasts can purchase it, spin it in their own homes, and sell it to people like me back through Bilby Yarns.  It’s such a great scheme!!  All my yarn was spun by the talented Beverley L. whose yarn I also used last year!  Some of my yarn this year was leftover from last year, and I managed to buy some more of her’s this year…. I’m so pleased I was able to purchase so much of her gloriously lovely handspun!  I bought mostly undyed natural white, and some natural grey.  The grey is quite rare, and I was lucky to get hold of this!  I used the grey to highlight each colour; I like how the grey stripe adds a bit of trompe l’oeil 3D-ness to the coloured stripes, like a shadow underneath each one.

So! I had my natural ivory and grey yarn, now for the colours!  All my dyeing experiments are outlined in this post here.  I didn’t end up using all the colours I produced… leaving something for the next 1year1outfit maybe??  The colours I chose from my experiments are, from the hemline going up, are:

Orange, from Coreopsis flowers;

Acid yellow; from sour grass stems and flowers,

Blue, from Japanese indigo, and I’m so grateful to Nicki for the use of her dye vat,

Pink, from avocado pits,

and that lime-y green colour at the neckline, and seen in closeup a few pictures down, was the result of over-dyeing, soaking some of my spare indigo yarn in a sour grass (oxalis) dye bath and then with just a single coreopsis flower (orange) tossed in to give it a bit more oomph when I realised the yellow was a bit weak.

The design: is my own!!  I did about a million calculations first but even then there was plenty of unravelling and re-doing bits until I was satisfied with it!   I wrote down my final pattern below, just in case I ever want to revisit this pattern, or if anyone is interested in knitting an entire dress for themselves!  It’s ok, I wouldn’t blame anyone who didn’t but still…  The only thing is that it’s only got the one size.  That lower hemline with slightly forward slits?  yes, it’s pretty obvious that my hemline is totally inspired by the Named patterns Inari tee dress, a pattern I have made five times now and unequivocally LOVE.   I just really like the way the Inari dress slits do the job of a walking vent, but is visually more interesting and obvious than your regular, garden variety, centre-back walking vent … and I really like the terraced high-low look of that longer back and shorter front.

The dress is mostly stocking stitch, with the lower edges, the sleeve edges, and pocket opening welts highlighted with various width rows of garter stitch.  Those sleeves!  OK, I’ll confess these almost did me in  … initially I had other ideas, resulting four false starts on the sleeves before the final design decision.  Four!! It was a bit gut-wrenching, each time I would be chooffing merrily along with a sleeve, before the dawning realisation that my previously thought-to-be cool idea was actually going to look really really stupid.  Gut-wrenching!  SO MUCH UNRAVELLING!!  But I refused to give up, I kept reminding myself that this HAD to work, I’d put so much into it already and I just could not abandon it in its hour of need.  Finally I hit upon this sleeve, a very simple, and plain, , unadorned long-sleeved style , which worked out just right, I think.

Pockets; of course it has pockets!!  the dress is knitted in the round, so there are no side seams, but I left openings at the front hip to knit in the pockets later.  There are little extension “flaps” at the pocket openings, for a continuous look when you’ve got your hands in the pockets and may catch glimpses of the pocket insides; and the pockets are just little “bags” made by picking up stitches along this edge, knitting a simple rectangular strip and folding it in on itself.  The garter stitch “welt” was knitted on before stitching the pocket piece closed.

The neckline; just wanted something really simple and streamlined, so I did one single row of chain stitch embroidery around the neckline edge.

The beanie: is a slightly loose and slouchy beanie, as I love this look and have decided this style of beanie suits me quite well, I think… hope!  The arrangement of the stripes is the same as the dress, just on a smaller scale.  This got unravelled and re-knitted only once before I worked out just exactly how I wanted it to look.

Le Whole Shebang, with accessories and all:

 

Shoes and bag; I’m wearing the same shoes and bag I made for last year’s project.  At first I worried that they wouldn’t “go” but well; I reckon they go just fine.  I carved my shoe bases from Manjimup pine and made the felted tops in natural white and black merino fleece and handspun, as described here.  The matching bag is of the same felt.

Underwear: yep, same as last year.  Well, I’m not going to make a new pair when I never wear this set at all!  However, it is totally 100% local so I’m counting it as part of my totally local outfit again for this year, hehe.

So that’s it!!  Am I going to take part in the “1 year 1 outfit” project again next year? well I do have ideas, but confess I’m a little exhausted, by, well…  everything, at this point.  Maybe, maybe not.  The truth is that I actually do have enough totally local materials still, to produce something… so maybe…  yes?! We’ll see!

fun fact; the small tree with bright green leaves behind and to the right of me in the picture, is called a Snottygobble.  Yes, really!! #weirdAussienames

Following is my free pattern for this knitted, slightly A-line dress with inset, welted pockets, split hem, long sleeves.  Includes pattern for optional beanie also.  Please link back to me and credit me if you use this pattern, thank you so much  🙂

Knitted dress + beanie

Location;  Leeuwin National Park, in the south-west of Western Australia… although the picture immediately below is actually taken in our own garden, since I forgot to take my bag with me when I went to the park, doh!!

Now, you may be wondering… Carolyn, isn’t it the height of summer?  Aren’t you absolutely roasting alive like a broiled lobster in that warm and ultra-cosy-looking woollen ensemble??  The short answer to those questions is; yes, and again, yes.  Ahem.   The maestro of Seasonally Inappropriate Sewing strikes yet again.

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a family collaboration

mum

So Mum is up to stay with me, and she popped out the other day wearing this gorgeous, completely handmade ensemble… and it occurred to us that it was a tri-generational effort!  Mum made her skirt, Cassie made the scarf for Mum a few years ago, and I recently made the top for her.  I asked her if she minded if I took a picture to share on ye olde blog and she graciously said yes.

SO!  What have we here?!

skirtPride of place of course goes to Mum’s skirt… alabamachaninstudiobook a fully hand-embroidered and hand stitched Alabama Chanin skirt; with embroidery in the reverse appliqué method, and using the four panelled, mid length skirt pattern from the book Alabama Studio Sewing + Design by Natalie Chanin.    The cotton jersey fabrics were originally white and Mum dyed them herself in two different shades of grey and blue.  Mum traced and cut the stencil design June’s Spring from p116 in the book herself, enlarging by 300% as recommended, (also available as a pre cut stencil on the Alabama Chanin website here)  She printed the design in creamy-coloured textile paint, and hand-embroidered with a running stitch in double strand of cream Gutermann’s upholstery thread.

alabama-chanin-embroideryWhen snipping out the motifs she carefully left a very narrow border of the cream stencil round each one.
ac-embroidery

Exquisite, oui??  I adore everything about this skirt; the colours, the design, the workmanship; and it’s just slightly tempting me to get out the materials and get a-hand-stitching again.  Slightly  😉

scarf1

The scarf… Cassie made the this gorgeous seaside/beach-inspired silk scarf for an art project at school.  She hand-dyed and -painted white silk habotai in blue and yellow blocks and blobs, tying parts of it in the  shibori style, then stitched a wiggly row of blue stitching for the tide, and embellished with clusters of mini yellow glass and gold beads.  The hems are hand-rolled and -stitched.

beading

I can’t believe I’d almost forgotten about this beautiful piece of Cassie’s and feel so lucky and proud that I have two such talented and creative ladies in my life.

scarf2

esme-top

Mum’s top is made by me, and yes it is very plain… !  everyday-styleA month or so ago Mum mentioned how she specifically wanted an unobtrusive, very plain white top to wear with this skirt so I offered to run one up for her… I chose the Esme top pattern from Lotta Jansdotter’s book Everyday Style and a slubby plain white cotton from Fabulous Fabrics.  I measured Mum all over, secretly storing the measurements away for future use, mwahahaha… no one gets away from the handmade in my family!!    and drew the pattern so as to custom fit it or Mum’s measurements.  Instead of the neckline facings I finished the neckline with a bias cut strip, because I think it’s a much nicer and neater finish for a neckline edge.  Mum wants to know how to do this herself so I’ve promised to write a tutorial sometime.
neckline

Anyway.  She looks so chic and beautiful here, and it was so fantastic when we realised she was spontaneously wearing a collection of handmade family pieces… Such a fabulous and sentimental thing for the three of us.  Thank you so much for letting me share, Mum!

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acton dress, in the folds

acton-3

Hello, I’ve made a new sundress.  Hmmmm, how do I love thee… let me counactont the ways.  It’s easy. It’s breezy.  It’s the palest of soft cloud-grey with teeny ivory stripes.  It’s crinkly-linen-tastic on the outside, and lusciously silk-lined on the inside.  It’s a midi length #currentcrave  The skirt can be styled in multiple different ways.

That’s a lot of different ways.

Pattern; a few weeks ago Emily, the designer behind In the Folds contacted me, asking if I would like to review her new pattern, the Acton dress.  Obviously I said yes!  I love trying out new patterns! and this one looked like so lovely and elegant for summer, long clean lines, an interesting skirt, tres chic

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Fabric; a crinkly linen bought at Tessuti’s in Melbourne a few years ago during a trip over there with Mum and Cassie.  I remember I was going to make a shirt for one of my boys from it, but it wasn’t really the best fabric for that and I ended up buying pinstriped linens for them all instead, which was far more suitable.  And by doing so, I then had the fabric all for my own selfish little self, while maintaining the virtuous position of having actually bought it unselfishly for someone else, mwahaha.  My dress is fully lined with an ivory, silk crepe from Fabulous Fabrics.  Actually leftover from my Ruby slip; and I just needed to buy a little more to get out the pieces.

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For the straps and the ties; I used 1.5mm wide, white grosgrain ribbon.  The pattern provides pieces and instructions to cut these out as bias-cut strips, but I chose to make them the cheat’s easy way.  I overlocked all raw edges inside the dress, and hand-stitched the hemline in both skirt and lining

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Thoughts and alterations:  the pattern has two variations, or four if you count the fact that the bodice has two variations, and the skirt another two.  Along with the fact that the skirt on variation B can be tied differently in several different ways itself, that adds up to …um, let’s just say “lots” of slightly different looks, to suit lots of different tastes, pick your favourite.   I love having options like this in a pattern!

I made my dress with skirt B and bodice A that has a lower back.   As recommended in the pattern, I used the skirt A pieces for my lining.  There is an invisible zip in the CB seam, but with the lowered back of bodice A, I have found I can actually just slip the dress on and off over my head without having to zip it up or down.  BONUS!!  and darn that perfectly aligned invisible zip!

skirt wrapped and tied at front

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The pattern is only available as a pdf; which I reckon is absolutely brilliant for those of us who want something NOW, however has the unavoidable downside that you have to tape all those pages together *sad trombone*   If you’re printing out both skirt options as I did,  because I was using skirt A pieces to line skirt B this is a whopping 64 pages in total.  Yes, that’s a lot!   Though, this is the entire pattern, and  if you’re making the skirt unlined you wouldn’t have anywhere near that many  🙂   Also, of course you can always go the A0 route; take the file to a copy shop like Officeworks and pay a small amount to have it printed on three A0 size pages.  This reduces the amount of taping to almost nothing.  Me being the impatient bod that I am, yes: I printed at home and taped… and I save time and tape by cutting out and only taping together the bits that I absolutely have to.

I used to find pdf’s a bit of a pain but the instant gratification is undeniably a big plus and I consider myself an expert at this taping biz now.

skirt wrapped and tied at back

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My measurements put me at a size C, and as mentioned, I can just slip the dress on over my head.  I do have narrow shoulders it’s true, and my crinkly fabric does have a tiny amount of give, but the bodice does have that easy-wearing, loose-ish fit, which I reckon is a good thing for summer, or if you want to wear it over a Tshirt as I am pictured below.  I found it necessary to do just a slight small bust adjustment; I did this by the simple expedited method of flattening the bust curve by shaving about 1cm off of the bust curve.  Not very scientific, but it works fine for me…

skirt wrapped and tied at back

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I also lengthened my outer skirt pieces about 7cm at the lower hem, to give a nice long midi skirt, just because I’m currently in a midi sort of a mood.  A mood for midis  😉  Speaking of the skirt, let’s get into these skirt variations… what are these different ways in which it can be styled?

skirt loose and untied

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Firstly, there’s just with the side pieces hanging down completely loose and with the ties tied up in themselves to keep them up off the floor.  This is easy and comfortable, excellent for large Christmas dinners! and gives that sort of loose, flowy, “Lagenlook” to the dress.

Secondly and thirdly, wrap and overlap the side bits around to either the front or the back of the dress… (in photos higher up)  I’m undecided as to which of these I like the best.  They both look equally cool, I reckon.  Craig likes them wrapped to the front (below).

skirt wrapped and tied at front

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Finally; I’ve been seeing all the cool, fashion-conscious kids of the world wearing their long-line spaghetti strap midi dresses with a little cap-sleeved Tshirt on underneath, so thusly decided to give it a whirl (below)… and I really love it like this!  It was too hot to wear it in Broome with the additional layer underneath, but right now in Perth our sorta-warmish-but-not-hot springy weather means it’s simply perfect to wear a sundress with Tshirt, for that little bit of extra coverage.  And the ties, for this “look”, I just tied them very loosely at the back without “wrapping” the side bits over each other.  This does look nice too, I think, more casual and allows the long sleek lines of the dress to hang more gracefully.  I actually think this could be my favourite way though it’s a close one.  I do really like the way the skirt can be worn such a lot of different ways and plan to mix it up every time I wear it!

skirt not wrapped but loosely tied at back

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Now, for some business-y notes.  Emily kindly offered me an affiliate link for the Acton; and while up until now I have earned not one single cent from my blog and I have often said I wouldn’t do affiliate links, I have decided it’s time to give it a go.  So my links to the Acton pattern will pay me a very small commission if someone chooses to buy it through that link.  Please bear in mind that the commission paid to me is NOT an additional cost to the pattern; if you buy the pattern the price is exactly the same whether you buy through my link or otherwise.  I just wanted to explain that just in case anyone was unsure and was wondering how it works.  If you have enjoyed reading about and looking at my sewing projects over the years and also wish to buy this pattern, then please do not rule out this option  🙂

The Acton dress pattern is available from Emily’s site here; and you can also read more about Emily, an honours graduate in fashion and textiles from the University of Technology Sydney, and her other designs here

loosely tied at back

Details:

Dress; the Acton dress by In the Folds, in grey striped crinkly linen, lined with silk crepe
Tshirt; the Nettie, white jersey, details here
Hat; Vogue 8844, ivory corduroy, details and my review of this pattern here
Sandals, in the beach pics; designed and made by me, details here
Clogs; in the garage pics; designed and made by me, details here

 

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I took these beachy photographs on Cable Beach in Broome; a place which captured my heart during our holiday a few weeks ago and from which I did NOT want to come home.  I’m not even joking. I’m getting that happy, eternally-summer vibe all over again, just looking at these pictures *sigh*  Minimums 25C, maximums 32C every day; huge beach, squeaky white sand, almost completely deserted.  Heaven!!  I want to go back!!

Bonus picture; husband was intending to stay well out of the way but still managed to inadvertently photobomb, haha

craig

LATER EDIT: the dress has had a minor update!  I sliced off the wings, angling from the waist seam in a straight line out to the unaltered hemline… so the dress still has those lovely handkerchief points in the hemline, but is a little more streamlined about the waist and hips.

LATER EDIT:

the dress has had another update!

fairly major this time… it’s been worn quite a lot and I was getting a little bit tired of it…  so it got rather summarily dunked into the dyepot… from which it somehow managed to emerge totally transformed into something newly amazing and magnificent to my eyes…  I’M SO IN LOVE WITH THIS DRESS ALL OVER AGAIN!!!!

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a Kelly for Kelly, and one for Cassie too…

img_7318ccf-kelly-anorakO hey-a!  After finishing my own Kelly anorak and having it admired to the nth degree by family members, I made a few more!  a pale grey one for Cassie, and I also made a deep cobalt blue one for Tim’s girlfriend Kelly.  Well, it seemed only right that she should have a “Kelly” too!

 

blue-anorakI quickly snapped that top picture of an unsuspecting Cassie waiting to meet up with me in town before she noticed me heading towards her… I know it’s a bit blurry and not very posed to show off the anorak to modelly perfection, but I just really like it nonetheless… to me it attests that she’s been wearing it a tonne, in fact every single occasion that I’ve seen her in the past three weeks since I finished it and gave it to her she has been wearing it.  There’s no greater compliment to a seamster than that! as well as a testament to the pattern being an absolute style winner.  Kelly’s worn hers each time I’ve seen her since I gave it to her too, but I’ve not taken any pictures of her in it.. will update if she sends me one  🙂

This, taken when I presented it to her three weeks ago, and probably the only time it’s been worn with the sleeves unrolled like this.  It does look a little more wintery like this.  I have to admit, it does look a lot trendier and suits the casual, “heading into summer but still need a layer” look to have the sleeves rolled up.

img_6928Both the anoraks are in a nice weight cotton drill from Spotlight, in fact, all the other bits and pieces are from Spotlight too.  In both anoraks, I added a few inches to the length of the body and modified the pockets to have separate pocket flaps so as to close the pockets; otherwise these are both made up exactly to the pattern.

kelly2This picture below of Kelly’s anorak has been my most “liked” picture on instagram ever! far more than anything I have ever made for myself!  Interesting, no?  Well, I think it is, anyway  😉  I don’t know what that “says”, if anything at all, but maybe something.  Social media is such a funny phenomenon.  Something else also interesting to me is how a person, any person, can have a certain number of followers and the number of “likes” never ever reaches anywhere close to that number.  Honestly, I have no idea about how or why this is so, but it’s just a curious thing.

kelly3I’d got enough of the same white cord for Kelly’s anorak , but since I’d found a nice, perfectly colour-matched blue zip for hers’, and used blue thread for all topstitching and there was no other white anywhere in the jacket; the white cord looked all wrong.  And naturally there’s no such thing as blue cord in the whole of Perth!  so I just had to dye it.  And, when your regular dye-pot is HUGE and there’s just one little length of cord what’s a mad maker to do? but of course, improvise.

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Yeah, I know this looks uber-weird, but determination breeds resourcefulness… and it gave me such a laugh to watch this crazy little dye-pot bubbling on the stove!  I’d tossed a pair of the same white plastic stops as I used for Cassie’s anorak in with the dye bath and it was very satisfying that they dyed up a nice deep blue too.  I’d bought some silver stops just in case but fortunately the blue dye did the job beautifully  🙂
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Different day, still wearing it.  Yep, like I said, she’s worn it literally every single time I’ve seen her in the past three weeks.  I’m calling that a ginormous WIN!

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