Tag Archives: Top

I made some stuff…

So, what are the latest whatevers to wing their way out of the atelier, hmmm?  Well, I’ve been making LOADS of things, just nothing much to show for it, as yet.  Remember I mentioned I was making a pattern?  Well, making a pattern comes with making a truckload of muslins, of course.  I’ve actually made 13 dresses in the last month alone, albeit they’re made from old sheets and are a bit rough, but still.  Am I going to count these in my “one refashion a month” resolution? no, that wouldn’t be fair.  How’s the pattern coming along? swimmingly! which is fab… I’m almost at the testing phase, I will be incredibly happy to get there after 8 months of preparation.  8 MONTHS!

In more tangible making results, I made a little romper for Sarah’s new little boy…  Sarah LOVES stripes, so the descent into stripe-matching madness struck once again.  I used Butterick 6372, which I’ve made twice previously, and just altered it slightly to be a romper, and added that cute little pocket.  Would you believe I re-did that little pocket THREE flipping times??  First I made a curved bottom pocket, which was pretty awful, followed by a flat bottomed pocket.  Equally awful.  I do really like the pointed bottom pocket though, I think it’s super cute.  It’s my favourite part about the whole romper actually!

The striped cotton terry is from Spotlight, hopefully the last piece of fabric I will buy this year, given Project Stash Reduction is a goal this year.  The red cuffs and pockets were culled from a Wildcats Tshirt from my refashioning pile.  Thus partially fulfilling my once-a-month refashioning resolution #virtouslyRubbingFingernailsOnChest.

There was a little bit of leftover striped fabric, so I also made an adult sized beanie, using a pattern made by Andrea of fabric epiphanies.  I’m afraid though that I couldn’t for the life of me work out how to print it up so the sizing square was the correct scale… three attempts later, and eventually I settled for “pretty close”.  I estimated my beanie is actually about 7-8% bigger than the pattern, and then Sarah informed me it is too small! aaaagh!  It is a pretty cute pattern though, I will still probably give it another go one day  🙂

The stripes do match up all around though, both inside and out, a matter of personal pride for me.  I bound the beanie using a strip of blue merino, given to me by Mum.

So, after cutting the romper cuffs and pocket from the Tshirt, I still had quite a chunk of Tshirt leftover, well this wouldn’t do!  I immediately realised, as you do; that I could get two pairs of knickers and a bra from the leftovers.  Well, I’m sure that is the first thought anyone would think, hmmm?

I used the cloth habit Watson pattern, and cut out a bra plus two sets of matching knickers… yes, it was an XL Tshirt. I avoided as much of the advertising as possible and tried to stick to just the Wildcats logos as much as I could.

As I was making it, it occurred to me… is jungle January still a thing?  See, in the past few years I’ve been in the habit of making a set of underwear for jungle January, and one of the things about the basketball is that the Perth Arena is known as “the Jungle” during the Wildcats games.  Like, they’re always screaming  “WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE!!!!!!” and going on about “…. HERE IN THE JUNGLE…!!!!”   “Jungle” I guess because, wildcats.  Anyway, it occurred to me that I was serendipitously making a jungle-themed set of underwear again.  Without even meaning to!  Win!!!

Do you wanna hear something funny?

I’ve been in the throes of making this set for several weeks now, fitting it in as light relief in between working on my pattern, you know; and I took it along to the sewing guild meeting yesterday in the hopes of finishing it up.  And there I had the joy of seeing Emma also making a Watson bra.  Except her’s was really beautiful; super pretty, with chartreuse lace, pink and blue elastics, generally all round gorgeous and very feminine.  Just absolutely lovely in every way.  Such a contrast to my sorta … lowbrow one made from an old basketball Tshirt,  With logos, and everything.  Like something a teenager might wear.  Or more like, refuse to.  Omigawd, so embarrassing. I swear I don’t try to be like this.  It just happens.  Every now and again, I think back to an anonymous commenter who used to frequent my blog, and who couldn’t resist from pointing out my 1) immaturity and 2) unnecessary penny-pinching-ness, among other things.  Ahem, guilty as charged!

Fully lined with a lightweight stretchy stuff that I discovered during my stash clean out…  My tutorial for fully lining this pattern to enclose the seams, is here

 

I thought about not posting this next one… but wellll, here goes… I’ve also made another thing, squeezed out from the Wildcats Tshirt, I mentioned it was an XL yeah?! I also got a little cropped top, much nothing to write home about at all… I made it specifically for my new workout aspirations.  I hadn’t made any working out or losing weight resolutions on New Year’s Eve … but just lately I’ve been feeling a bit stodgy and decidedly… “matronly”, is the only word I can think of.  So I decided to do something about it, and purchased the Kayla Itsines Bikini BodyGuide.  One thing you’re supposed to do before even getting started is take a picture of yourself, preferably in a sports crop top and little shorts, and then take a new picture in the same ensemble every week as you work through the guide.  So obviously I had to make myself a little crop top, asap!  I used my customised version of the Closet Case Nettie bodysuit pattern and whipped up this super basic thing, just edged with a line of white overlocking thread around all the edges, which I think looks nice with my little white shorts.  I made those too.. they’re are the eponymous Carolyn pyjama shorts.  I rolled them up a bit, to show as much abdomen as I dared.  Hopefully, it’s going to become a more shapely one in a few weeks!  Don’t worry, I will not be posting a new picture here every week, but I’ll probably do an summary when I finished the course!

I started out with the beginner’s schedule, and practically killed myself just doing day 1!!

before… 

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an optimistic splash of colour and sunshine

Making this piñata, I mean… outfit was a random, didn’t really care about the outcome, “just because” bit of experimental fun… so of course it turned out perfect.  I love it.

So, we were going down to our beach house for the week between Christmas and New Year … and I have this teeny tiny dinky little sewing machine that I keep there and was thinking it was high time to give it a little workout.  Other than one other time I made a “real” garment, a pair of shorts, it’s been a strictly curtain-hemming and minor mending jobber.  btw, I gave those shorts to Cassie recently, she looks so much better in them!

This cheap little sewing kit that I bought from Coles a few years ago lives in the beach house too; it’s pretty much perfect…

So I packed some stuff to take down with me…. fabric, patterns, thread, zip and a button.  I even remembered white cotton for facings, and interfacing.  Who IS this efficient creature? I don’t even know.  Oh, and pompoms!!  Why pompoms??  WHY NOT POMPOMS, is more like the question!

I’d bought the fabric from the upholstery section in Spotlight last year; at the time I’d picked it up to cut so I could pay for my things at the cutting counter rather than at the all-inclusive checkout counter, which I had noticed on the way in was HUGE.  The things we do sometimes….  #stashenabler  Well played Spotlight, oh very well played…  I’m sure they sell a lot more fabric that way.  I’d also bought the burnt orange pompom trim a few years ago for something else that never got realised… I’d put them both in the “red” cubby hole in my new storage system and thought they looked quite nice together… so fortuitous!  My new system is proving itself already!

Clara says hi…  #soBIGnow

I chose the simplest and most featureless of patterns, because the super-loud colours plus pompoms is already a busy enough story on its own…  The skirt is basically Vogue 1247 stripped back; I lengthened it by about ?10cm? roughly… this pattern always needs lengthening.  Also, eliminated the pockets and horizontal seams, and flared out towards the hem a little more to be more A-line.  I think unlined summer skirts do need a little more flare to them, makes them cooler and breezier.  The top is yet another riff on New Look 6483, a great basic pattern for a simple shell with a whole lot of variations for the sleeve/armhole and neckline.  I’ve had it for years and used it loads of times.  This is view B, cropped a LOT.

Everything came from my stash; #stashbustingwin  and this button!  It’s been in my stash for so long, and there’s never been just the right project for it.  As soon as I spotted it again in my button bag, I knew its time had come!

My little holiday-house machine is so very un-serious, like using a toy sewing machine, you can’t help yourself but feel like you’re playing while you’re using it.  It’s so clunky and little.  It doesn’t even do buttonholes.  I actually tricked it into doing a sort of buttonhole, by careful zig-zagging, and manipulation of the stitch length and width, and careful realigning of the fabric to do each side.

I had so much fun making this crazy carefree little number!  I was on holiday, just having total fun with it, and so making it felt like a holiday too.  I think it even looks like a holiday!

  

Details:

Top; New Look 6483, cropped
Skirt; modified Vogue 1247
Clogs; designed and made by me, details here

my favourite bit… the pompoms!

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Christmas pressies; a sewing marathon

Tim and Kelly…

As usual, I made Christmas presents for my family… I started late October, so I was giving myself plenty of time, or so you’d think!  I’m a fairly efficient seamster, and I still only just finished a few days before Christmas!  it’s been a little intense and stressful, actually; every year I underestimate how busy the lead-up to Christmas is and how I just don’t get as much time to devote to sewing presents as I thought.  Plus, I’m a lot more finicky and particular – maybe excessively so?! about my sewing now too.  I think this is a good thing, but I have to accept that I’m taking longer to make things, and should start sooner!  Or maybe make less?

Anyway, it got done!  *phew

Listing everyting in the order I made it…

First thing to get made was a shirt for Tim… He has a job now where he has to look smart, so I decided to make a business shirt… I bought the really lovely deep maroon, mini-scale gingham cotton shirting from Tessuti’s in Melbourne, and used Burda 6874, my kinda go-to shirt pattern since I semi-retired Burda 7767.  d’you know I made that pattern 37 times… can you believe it?!  that tissue paper was wearing pretty thin in some places and in some other places I’d trimmed off the cutting lines altogether, woopsies!!

what sleeve placket…? of course I busted a gut matching those teeny little checks everywhere, took me two days before I could see straight again…

I made the buttondown version… see how the collar up there buttons down onto the shirt?  This is what qualifies it as a buttondown, folks!  I don’t wanna get all grumpy and pedantic here, being Christmas and all, but the number of times I’m reading about someone’s very lovely, but NOT A BUTTONDOWN shirt erroneously labeled as such and have to hold myself back, because we all hate a little lecture, right? I’m gonna stop right now otherwise I’m going to become that painful lecture-r.

this is the inside of the shirt… I’m pretty proud of my flat-felled seams… and I use the burrito method for the yoke so that’s all nicely enclosed too

All seams are flat-felled, using my own tutorials here and also this one here… yes you can flat-fell every single seam in a shirt! and it’s so much better and nicer… although I’m starting to realise that this is probably why what used to take me maybe two days to make a shirt…  now takes me double that time at the least! but anyway.  My guys appreciate the tailoring, so I’m happy that they’re happy.

Sam’s shirt…

I’m just SUPER happy with how my buttondown collars are looking nowadays!  It’s pretty hard to get that sitting just right and perfectly symmetrical; and I think after all the shirts I’ve made I’ve finally got it down…

Next up; I made a matching top for Kelly.  I’ve previously made matching tops for the two of them and noticed that they wear them together a lot! yes, it’s super cute…  I did a little bit of subtle inquiring as to whether matching clothes were still something they liked before I went there and got a positive response.  Alright then!

I had to be far less subtle about fitting it though!  I’d previously taken Kelly’s measurements for when I made a Kelly anorak for her… it’s impossible to do this without it being obvious! and made a block for her, using my Pattern Magic book to help me.  Yes, this is a pretty involved thing to do, requiring protractors and algebra and such-like! but honestly I’ve always found it to be a hugely worthwhile exercise when drafting new patterns.  Then I mocked up a quick plain bodice, and got her to try it on, and made the necessary changes.  In Kelly’s case, the block fitted but the armhole/bust dart had to modified considerably… the famous full-bust adjustment.  I regret now that I didn’t take any pictures of the mock-up bodice and the changes I made because it was a new learning curve for me that I wish I’d documented!

For Kelly’s top, I’d chosen the asymmetrical cowl top from Pattern Magic 2; the shape of the cowl is dictated by the shape of the facing.  It’s always a bit of a challenge to draft your own patterns, but well I love a challenge! and I knew the shape of this top would be super flattering for Kelly and suit her beautifully…  I cut the pieces on the bias and inserted a maroon invisible zip in the left side seam, so it zips down undone… however Kelly says she can squeeze into it without having to undo the zip which is cool.  I think the bias-cut is what gives it that little bit of stretch.

Next up! a business shirt for Sam! He has also started a new job which requires business dress everyday… I’d noticed a lot of young men wearing gingham shirts while we were in Melbourne… a good sign that gingham is super on-trend! so hot right now! which is basically why I bought gingham for both my boys in the first place.  It’s a bugger to pattern match though, even worse than stripes! gnnnnnnn  but oh well…

Again I used Burda 6874, flat felled seams throughout, same links as for Tim’s above… aaaaand so not much else to add.  Both Sam and Tim have been working out some lately, so I think I’m going to have to make some small adjustments to their shirts in the future.

Next up!  I made some little things for Cassie, she needs more work clothes so this was another practical gift really.  I made three things for her…. I just want to say here; it might seem unfair that I made one top plus TWO skirts for her, when compared to just one shirt for each of the boys, but it really does even out because the TIME I spent making these three little separates is actually the same as the time I spent on EACH of the boys’  shirts.  I know, crazy right?!  it’s all that tailoring bizzo that takes so much time…

Likewise, Kelly’s top needing a block made, plus the fitting muslin, plus drafting a pattern, also took about the same amount of time as making three tried and true things for Cassie!

Anyway; Cassie had already chosen this lovely crackle-y hand-painted cotton from the Fabric store in Melbourne while we were there, and I secretly bought the mustard gingham printed silk from Tessuti’s while she was looking elsewhere.  So the little top was a surprise!  The crackle print really is gorgeous, it is hand painted in Zambia and has that handmade naturalness to it…  LOVE this but pattern matching those hand-painted stripes was never going to happen!  of course they are all different widths and thicknesses which just adds to the charm of course.  I just shut down my inner-obsessive for a little while and did my best… at least I got the centre back seam to match!

The other little skirt is a cityscape print, maybe New York City by the looks of that Lady Liberty in there!  We’d seen the fabric in the upholstery section of Spotlight, so she’d known this one was coming too…

for both skirts I bound the lower hem seams using some leftover purple pin-striped linen, the leftovers from when I made this shirt for Craig a few Christmas’s ago.

I have also taken to binding the bottom edge of the zip and stitching it down to the seam allowances… often the bottom edge of a zip has a slightly scratchy bit which can be extreeeeeemely irritating when you’re wearing it… so I’ve taken to doing this whenever I made an unlined skirt with an invisible zip.  Such a small thing that greatly increases the comfort factor when wearing the skirt!!!

  

Oh! patterns!  I used the Inari tee pattern for the little top and Vogue 8363 for both of the skirts, and since I’ve made both of these patterns for her several times already they were super quick and easy to run up. For both skirts I added belt loops so she can cinch in the waistline a bit; in self-fabric for the Zambia striped one, and in black denim for the cityscape one.

Next up! a short-sleeved white shirt for Craig! also using Burda 6874 and a white cotton broadcloth from Spotlight, this was intended originally to be the same as this little shirt that I made for him a few years ago and which happens to be his most worn shirt … then just before making this I’d whipped up my little yellow/black&white lingerie set and had the gingham ribbon sitting out, and suddenly had this brainwave as to how I could use a bit more of it! I stitched the gingham ribbon carefully down the button line of the button placket, and used a little bit to trim the pocket.

To match this gingham detail, I lined both the collar and collar stand with some cotton gingham that I’ve had for aaaaages, and used black buttons to finish the shirt.  Note; IT’S A BUTTONDOWN SHIRT!  Also, of course it’s nowhere near a clone of the other white shirt any more but I still think he’ll wear it a lot…

Next up! a pullover/sweatshirt for Craig!  truth now… I was running out of time, and steam! and this fair near killed me!

Craig with a much much smaller Sam and Tim…

So, once upon a time, nearly twenty years ago, we went on a summertime camping trip down south and it was blooming’ freezing, our tent nearly blew away, we got rained on, hailed on and fair near froze to death!  In pure survival mode, Craig drove to the nearest town bought a red sweatshirt that he has since LOVED and worn about a million times, almost to bits since it’s getting reeeeeeally worn and threadbare now.  At some point he asked me to make a clone of the famous sweatshirt…

Of course it’s easy to clone a sweatshirt, but the challenge is in finding suitable fabric! I found this blue marled French terry in Spotlight, and while the colour is a teeny bit blah and the texture is not as nice as his original sweatshirt, it’s going to make a reasonable stop-gap until winter rolls around, the winter fabrics come into the shops, and hopefully I can find something nicer.  I busted a gut finishing off all the seam allowances off beautifully inside though… imitating the exceptionally beautiful finishes that were in the original.  For the pockets and bias binding I used some of the leftover navy/white gingham that I used for Sam’s shirt, above.  The pockets are French-seamed and the rest of the seams have an interesting amalgamation of HongKong bound AND flat-felled seams… not sure if my method is the same as in the original but I worked out a way to do it and took a few pictures along the way.

First, stitch the seams, then figure out which way you want the seams to be stitched down and apply bias binding to the topside of the seam allowance… ie. to stitch along the same stitching as previously you will be pinning/stitching along the UNDERNEATH,

OR alternatively you can save yourself a step here and stitch the bias binding on at the same time as you’re stitching the seam; your choice.

Press the garment seam allowances open, then press them to the side where they will be felled, with the bias binding on top.  From the other, right side, of the garment, pin through all layers.

With the right side facing up, topstitch the garment to the seam allowances plus binding, through all layers, just to the side of the garment seam…

view on the inside…

Keeping the bias binding free and clean, trim and grade the garment seam allowances…

Turn under and press the raw edge of the bias binding down so as to encase the seam allowances of the garment, pin in place.

With the bias binding facing up, and following the previous stitching as a stitching guide, topstitch the pressed edge of the bias binding down.  Since you’re using the previous stitching as a guide, the width of your double-topstitching will be nice and even from the outside.

Voila!  Such a nice neat finish!  at first I thought it might be overkill, but it is rather classy, if I say so myself; looks pretty good both inside and outside.  I will definitely be using this one again!

As seen above, I also applied bias binding all around the zip tape and stitched it down with double top-stitching the same way to match… this really does make a nice, neatly finished look when the zip is down.  Which it will be, most of the time.

And, last but not least!  I also made a few more little hardback notebooks… just fun little things, however I do know that the recipients do actually use notebooks regularly so I know they will be useful too!  I used mostly a mixture of leftover and old papers; from old scrapbooks, some with the children’s scribbles still on them!  I’m sentimental that way  😉 , various papers, musical paper, some pale coloured wrapping paper, writing stationery; just lots of different stuff.

The notebooks are covered variously with linen, velvet, printed cotton.  The one I made for Mum is covered with raw silk hessian.

So! Yes, it was quite a lot of stuff to make and I was working on it all like billy-o from touching down after Melbourne right up until I finished right on the wire only two days before Christmas…  I’ve been thinking about this… why am I taking longer to achieve less nowadays?  and I think it’s because I used to be happy and content with a slightly more unfinished approach… slapdash is maybe too strong a word? whereas now I am far more, possibly excessively? finicky and particular about perfect finishes on the insides.  I think I’m ok with this…  I feel like well-finished clothing is what I’m into right now.

However, to avoid the Christmas stress maybe I need to start making Christmas presents a LOT sooner!  Each year I start way ahead of time and think by doing so will relieve the stress, each year I get super stressed out and have at least one “I CANNOT DO THIIIIIIS!!” moment.  But I did.  And now for a break from deadlines!!

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boatin’, campin’, bikin’ and hikin’ stoof

We’ve just come back from a holiday in Alaska, USA and British Columbia, Canada; had the most AWESOME-est time of course! but more about that later…  I made a few bits and pieces to fill in some gaps in the “mucking about in the great, but wet n’dirty, outdoors” areas of my wardrobe.  Specifically, I needed some things that were both quick-drying and warm… which means, and I apologise right now to any strict natural-fibrarians reading this  … polyester.   #ohtheshame

Hehe, just kidding, of course polyester has appeared here on my blog before and no doubt will again.  When you are roughing it out camping, and particularly in extreme climates, then unnatural fibres are definitely the go.

I made five new things prior to going on our holiday; a zip up fleece hoodie, a fleece sweater, some shorts for kayaking, a fleece neck warmer and a new sunhat.  I made some other new things too, while we were actually ON our holiday, but I’ll save those for another post!

In the order that I made them…

White fleece sweater

wearing beanie, sweater, hiking pants
location: Talkeetna Mountains, Alaska, USA

Pattern is Burda 09/2010; 121, fabric is 100% polyester fleece from Spotlight.

I’d bought my polyester fleece back in the height of hot hot February during their 40% off all fabrics sale, made it straight away and actually posted it to instagram way back then too, although it didn’t get truly worn until our holiday…

wearing sweater, skirt

Mods; made the sleeves a little longer, and I pinned the side seams out to fit it directly on me so it’s shaped and fitted to my taste.  After the first few days of wearing it I found the turtleneck to be extremely strangliferous.  This is not necessarily a criticism of the pattern, since I’ve always felt strangled by turtlenecks, ever since I was a child; I really should have known this one would be the same too, doh! Fortunately it’s an easy fix.  I simply borrowed a pair of scissors from the owner of the lodge and snip snip!! just chopped the turtleneck-y bit right off!  No hems or seams, well, I was desperate! but hey, fleece doesn’t really need edging anyway and now it’s a funnel neck, and only about a thousand times more comfortable.

I really really LOVE this.

Pink zip-up hoodie

wearing hoodie, white tee, grey tee, black jeans
location: the Khutzeymateen Wilderness Lodge on the Khutzeymateen River, British Columbia, Canada

Pattern is Burda 8042, the same 100% polyester fleece from Spotlight

Mods; in lieu of the patch pockets, I added welt pockets which were absolutely great for shoving my cold hands into… however I thought they gave a rather lumpy and thick look to my stomach region, even when said hands were not shoved into said pockets, and like most women I am not very partial to a lumpy thick look to my stomach region!  But it was awesome to have the pockets?  I dunno.

wearing hoodie, sweater, skirt

I wore this thing so much, like practically every day even though it’s not in all my pictures… and I pretty much hate it now.  It’s not really my colour, I only chose it because I actually had the perfectly coloured open-end zip in my stash already, inherited at some point from one of Mum’s periodic sewing-room clean outs, and I rationalised that the colour would be cheerful and fun.  But now I cannot stand the thought of ever wearing it again.  Can’t quite put my finger on the problem… as well as not suiting me, the colour feels somehow wrong for my personality, and then there was the lumpy stomach pockets thing.  It was a good thing to have though, perfect for camping, beautifully warm and it dried off very quickly.  Maybe I’m just sick of it.  I’m giving it a bit of time out at the top of the wardrobe, and maybe another wet and freezing cold camping trip will crop up again, some time in the future…

Black poly kayaking shorts

wearing hat, tee, shorts, raincoat

Please excuse the lack of an exotic location here … I didn’t realise until we got home that I neglected to get even one photo during our holiday that showed my new shorts !  thus a re-enactment of a holiday outfit and yes I am absolutely freezing  😉

My new shorts are refashioned from out of an old pair of Tim’s work pants, rescued from the refashioning bag… I knew from many years of washing these things how quickly they dry, so thought they would be perfect for the kayaking camp.  And they were absolutely brilliant…!

before, the observant will notice straight away that these have been nibbled at previously; that’s a pocket lining for something or another cut out of the bottom there…

To make them: I kept only the fly front and the button closure intact; unpicked most of the waistband and sliced off basically every single other seam! taking it in at both side seams, the centre back seam, and altering the crotch curve super drastically to fit.  Approximately 7″ is taken out of the waistband overall tapering out to almost no width from the legs so they are nicely flared, just the way I like them.  This also means that the hip pockets have a pretty tiny opening now! but I figured that’s a small price to pay for free new shorts and funnily enough I don’t really find occasion to put  my hands in my pockets while kayaking  😉

I cut down and reattached the waistband, re-positioned the belt loops and created a cuff for the bottom hem of the shorts.  I think they turned out quite cute!  I’d planned to wear these with black leggings for kayaking, but as it turned out the days we kayaked were warm enough so that the leggings were not necessary.

Love these, they were perfectamondo for paddling, and I expect they will be my go-to paddling uniform from now on…

Cherry red neckwarmer

wearing neck warmer, raincoat, skirt, tights
location; the dock in Haines, Alaska, USA

The most basic thing ever, literally a lined cylinder.  The outer is the same 100% fleece from Spotlight, the lining was cut from an old Tshirt from my refashioning bag.  Yes, that thing is still like a bottomless pit of fabric!  It’s a monster, but a pretty fabulous one for someone like me who is always sewing  😉

For my own future reference, the dimensions are:

fleece; 65cm x 29cm

cotton jersey lining; 64cm x 27cm

I made it by stitching the fleece rectangle and lining rectangle together at top and bottom, pinned the seam edges and the fleece edges together, and stitched the side seam leaving a 10cm or so gap in the side edge of the inner lining.  Turned the whole thing right side out through this 10cm gap, then slip-stitched the gap closed to finish.

Like the pink hoodie this simple thing got worn most days, but unlike the pink hoodie I actually still like it!  Just goes to show, ignore “your” colours at your peril!  And it went with EVERYTHING!

wearing neck warmer, striped tee, green tee, skirt, tights, raincoat
location: Haines, Alaska, USA

Olive sunhat

wearing hat, grey tee, shorts, raincoat
location; Hanson Island, British Columbia, Canada

Pattern is Vogue 8844, fabric is olive cotton rip-stop from an online store whose name I have absolutely no memory of whatsoever.  It’s leftover from the fabric I used for my khaki army-style jacket… I bought it in a joint order with my friend and neighbour Megan, and all I can remember is that the postage fee was so horrendously high that maybe I’ve deliberately blocked the store’s name from my memory in post-purchase shock, haha.

I lined the hat with floral rayon, leftovers from my French Navy Forsythe dress, I thought they went quite nicely together! and the crown is stayed with a coffee-coloured cotton braid that is a VERY long term resident in my stash.  Since I would be wearing the hat kayaking, I decided it would be a good idea to add a chin strap; this is an old, orphaned bootlace, snipped in half and stitched in each side underneath the crown stay.  For some reason, I decided to go with an additional method of tightening the hat to my head, and laced a piece of white cotton cord through the crown stay.  Probably not necessary and now it’s a rather over-engineered hat but oh well.  Got it now!

Technically, I didn’t really neeeeed a new sunhat, since I do have my perfectly lovely ivory corduroy sunhat, made a few years ago…. but still I decided a new one was in order.  Partly because I didn’t want my ivory one to get irrevocably dirty while camping, a khaki one would be more colour suitable for out in the dirt of the wilderness.  As it turned out, the weather wasn’t actually warm enough for it until well into our holiday! laugh! the first few weeks or our holiday were mostly wet and very cold and the sunhat languished unworn… squashed sadly and disconsolately in my suitcase *sob*  Then finally the weather turned warmer and we even got a bit of sun and I was like, hurrah, I CAN WEAR MY HAT!!!  and was pretty glad I’d gone to the effort of making it after all.

wearing hat, raincoat
location: Vancouver Island, BC, Canada

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…getting a Brazilian…

Olá!

Soooo, I mentioned my brother’s BIG birthday? well to go with it he had a BIG birthday bash! with a Brazilian theme.  I stupidly procrastinated about my costume, ended up going shopping for fabric the day before the party and had to cut n’ sew like a madman to get it done on time. #sewingmachineonfullblast

I’d first googled “Brazilian women” and what came up was nothing but women in bikinis.  NO.  Even if this were the very height of summer… still no.  So then I googled Brazil women’s national costume, and oh yes, that’s more like it!

These lovely ladies are wearing the traditional dress for Bahian women, and I thought the white lace and broderie anglaise tops and headscarves and full, brightly coloured skirts so very lovely.  So I set about making something like that…

For simple yet voluminous skirt that you can whip up quickly, you can’t go past a circle skirt… I bought 4m of red polyester taffeta from the $4 table at Spotlight… it is very stiff and very silk dupion like and I knew it would stick out nicely with a good amount of volume.  I cut out my circle skirt and divided the remainder to make a waist sash and a scarf for part of my headgear.  The skirt is a full 2m in diameter, and I thought about making it rush rush rush but nah. I just can’t do that sort of thing, even in a costume.  So it’s got a proper interfaced waistband, and closes with an invisible zip and a press stud in the waistband.  Hehe, while I was making my costume, Tim sent around a snapchat re it being National Doughnut Day, and I was like HA!  I’m fitting right in!  This is MY kind of doughnut!!

Oh, I have a little tip!  I usually hand-slipstich the ends of my invisible zips to the seam allowance with a few quick stitches, but lately I’ve taken to just doing a few quick back-and-forths on the sewing machine.  It’s so much quicker since you’re not having to thread a needle, and actually more stable too.

Speaking of rush rush, I admit I did not hem that giant circle skirt… it’s just overlocked along the edge there!  I figure that if/when I ever decide to wear it “for realz” then I’ll go to the effort and hem it properly.  Probably seems funny that I did the waistband properly when it’s not even “seen” in my costume, whereas the hem, which is fully visible, I didn’t finish properly… but you know, some things are easy to re-do later and some are not.  The waistband is the kind of a thing you’ve got to do it right the first time.

The blouse is made from an old lace curtain that was originally had hanging in an upstairs window… I took it down when we re-did our floors up there and have just never hung it up again! Lazy? the view was too nice? Both really  😉   A bit off one end was sacrificed for my top, hehehe.  I had also bought a length of white cotton/linen for the lining, there’s quite a few bolts of this in Spotlight at the mo’ selling for very cheap; I’ve actually bought quite a lot of it lately, for other projects yet to appear here…

My pattern is very loosely the epaulette top from She Has a Mannish style, cut to flare out more in the body and sleeves…  the lining is cut straighter in the sides.  The shell and lining have separate side seams, but are sewn together at the shoulders and armscye.  I pinned and stitched a square neckline, cut and overlocked the edge, and then stitched a length of white cotton bobbin lace around to edge it, part of a large stash that I’ve had for many, many (many, many) years.  It’s funny, I kind of threw this together just for the costume, but you know what?? I actually love it and will definitely be wearing this again, in real life!
Waist sash:  22cm x 3.8m, I wrapped it twice around my waist and finished off with a giant pouffy bow.  Head scarf:  30cm x 2.4m of white,  21cm x 2.3m of the red;  I’d cut the white wider to be the main colour with the red to be more of an accent, like how the Bahian ladies that had popped up in my google search have their headscarves.  I’d also googled “how to tie a Brazilian head scarf” and found this video which was sooooorta helpful, I kind of based mine off her first example… but my scarf is much much longer and I obviously tied and tucked and folded extra knots in mine so as to be a much higher and more complicated affair… I’d also made two “ropes” of the white and red and twisted them to tie around my headscarf to help keep it in place.

after this photo, I redid my headscarf and I think it was a lot better the second time!  but didn’t have enough time to take another pic 🙁

For footwear, I’d noticed that the ladies tend to wear low, flat, open sandals; very comfortable things like birkenstocks but not anything specific.  I got out a few of my sandals, and Mum voted for my little white sandals, that I made last summer.  I danced the night away in these things, and they’re still holding up great!

So that’s it!  We had a blast… I wish I could show you a picture of my son Tim, who went as Gisele Bündchen in a blonde wig, bikini top, boy leg shorts and full on wings a la Victoria’s Secret.   And clonking boots on his feet.  It was hilarious.  Absolutely he was the belle of the ball!

just use your imagination…

Another funny little moment of the evening’s preparations… Craig used this picture as his costume inspiration… we’d bought red, blue, green and yellow feather boas from Spotlight to customise the black pants and black shirt that he already had in his wardrobe.. we also bought yellow satin for a sash and a yellow velour fedora from Spotlight too…

Well, he’d cut and tied together lengths of the feather boas to make the leg and arm bands… and there was like masses of feather fluff and debris all over the floor.  So he’d got out the vacuum cleaner to do a quick tidy up.  Well, he was vacuuming quite perilously close to the little pile of carefully tied together feather boa bands… and I was literally just about to say “you might want to move those feather things” when FWOOOOOOOP! this quite long string of feather boas just disappeared! right up the vacuum cleaner in a flash!!  Like, literally a split second and they were gone, like a garishly coloured, feathery snake zooming at top speed into a burrow, …  well, Kelly and I burst out laughing and just couldn’t stop, haven’t seen anything so funny in aaaages!  Panic!  Don’t worry, we opened up the vacuum cleaner and rescued the furry beast from its lair, I mean, the feather boa, fortunately none the worse for wear.

SO much fun.  EEEEE, I LOVE costume parties!!

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deep teal, suedette dove blouse

Hey!

I’ve made a new blouse.  It’s the Dove blouse by Megan Nielsen patterns, in an lightweight but warm, faux suede from Spotlight.  So, the recommended fabrics for this pattern are shirt-weight stuff like voile and crepe de chine and chambray and linen… not a wintery fabric like this.  However, when have I ever taken any notice of fabric recommendations? Pretty much NEVER, haha.

And I love it.  Very very happy.  Look at those sleeves.  Oooo yeah.

this is a blouse that demands at least one dramatic arm pose

Now, remember how I mentioned pretty recently that I was looking out for this pattern??  Well, Evie, of Indie Stitches very kindly emailed me to let me know that she had one in stock… and offered to send it to me… thank you so much, Evie!  Indie Stitches is an online pattern store with a very nice range of both paper and digital patterns, obviously as the name suggests specialising in small and independent pattern makers like Closet Case Files, Grainline, Sewaholic, Jennifer Lauren Vintage, Papercut, By Hand London, Tilly and the Buttons, Waffle patterns, Megan Nielsen and would you believe this is just a selection?! There are many many more!  If you love supporting small independent pattern companies then I highly recommend heading over to the Indie Stitches pattern store and having a browse, at least.

Please note; I did receive this pattern gratis, however there are no affiliate links in this post.  I will always notify my readers if there is an affiliate link in my posts.  Also on a tangential yet related note, I read somewhere that people think bloggers are raking in the money through affiliate links, well! that may be true for some types of bloggers, like maybe fashion bloggers?  but sewing bloggers…  NO.

For the sleeves you do a triple-stitched skinny hem… it’s a hem finish I have used a few times before that gives a neat little baby hem but with no rippling or “lettuce-leaf” curling that you usually get with a single-stitched or machine-rolled hem… I think I read about it first years ago in an issue of Threads.  I wasn’t sure how it would work out with the slightly thickish suedette, but it did beautifully! and I had a request from my daughter and also from sewnewbee in IG as to how exactly is it done so I did a little sample and took a few pictures for a short tute…

I used a contrasting white thread here because I found you could barely make out a single thing in my pictures with the matching thread!  anyway:

First; stay-stitch at a distance of 6mm (1/4″) inside the raw edge, being super careful NOT to stretch out the edge while doing so.  This is the 1st row of stitching.

Turn the raw edge to the underside just outside the previous stitching, so the stitching sits just inside the pressed edge, and press.

Stitch again (the 2nd stitching) at a distance of 2-3mm  (1/8″) inside the pressed edge, and give it another quick press…

Trim away the raw edge as close to the 2nd stitching as you can.

Turn under this now extremely skinny, double stitched edge and stitch again (3rd stitching) right over the visible (2nd) row of stitching.  The first two lines of stitching help keep the hem from stretching out as you sew, so your edge will be nice and flat and with minimal “lettuce-leaf” curl along the edge.

Inside: looks almost like one row of stitching, but it is actually two; one over the top of the other

Right side has only one row of stitching… plus a very skinny, nicely non-curly edge achieved in a difficult to hem fabric  🙂

excuse me ma’am, your remote is showing

Details:

Blouse; Megan Nielsen Dove blouse MN2105, version 2, in petrol blue suedette
Skirt; Vogue 1247, yellow corduroy dyed brown, details here and my review of this pattern here
Tights; self-drafted, black polyester stretch, details here and my tutorial for making your own custom-fit tights pattern is here
Boots; made by me, and my own design, details here

location: South Perth foreshore, Western Australia

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golden brown


hello!  I’ve made this new blouse…  I was having trouble thinking of a way to describe the colour, since the only thing coming to my mind was those white puffball fungi that upon “puffing” send forth a little cloud of smelly spores that are just about exactly this colour.  Then Craig came to the rescue, suggesting “golden brown”  Oh, yes, that is SO much nicer!  Why is my brain sooo….? um, weird and mundane and lacking in poetic nuance?!

 

Fabric; a silk crepe from Tessuti fabrics in Melbourne, bought during a previous years’ trip over there with Mum and Cassie.  I’ve had it marinating in the stash all this time, awaiting the perfect blouse pattern.  I think this was happily, and accidentally, IT!

obligatory back view… 


Pattern; the Sudley by Megan Nielsen patterns. Tim and Sam gave it to me for Christmas, after I had requested the Dove blouse pattern.  Did I mention already that the Dove is perpetually sold out?? yes I believe I did.  Clearly my boys encountered the same issue that I have had …. timing, it seems, is everything!!  However, the Sudle is a nice little pattern, very simple, and I think I will use it a lot too.

This is actually the second Sudley I have made.  I also made a dress that has now been assigned to Cassie when I realised it was just going to be a little too, er, young for me.  I expect it’ll show up on ye olde blog here sometime…

 

Alterations:  The Sudley is a very young-at-heart style whereas I am more of a hoary-old-beast-at-heart; so I made a few minor design alterations to “old” it up a bit.   I opted for the plain neckline, and jazzed up the plain sleeves by running a loop of skinny elastic through the sleeve hems to gather them softly up, and made a separate bias rouleau loop “bow” which is purely decorative and just sewn on to the hem with a few firm stitches through all layers.

I also cut the lower hemline to have a curved “shirttail” line to it.  The hems and the neckline are all finished by hand, because I really wanted to have a smooth clean stitch-free expanse of fabric with absolutely no visible topstitching anywhere.  This is about as invisible as I could get.

Oh; one thing I did, which I would recommend for this type of neckline; you stay-stitch all around the neckline and the keyhole opening, obviously to stabilise it, however! to further help keep the neckline straight and true I kept a little bridge of fabric intact at the top front edges of the keyhole where the ties were to be attached, and maintained it throughout most of the blouse’s construction, and only cut through it at the very last minute, when turning and hand-stitching the bias binding down on the inside.  I think this simple precaution really helped to keep everything true.

All seams throughout are French seams, except for the armscye seams which I just ran through the overlocker to finish.  Picking my battles here!  This silk, while absolutely divine and a dream to wear, was actually not much fun to sew!  However!  The puffball spore, I mean, lovely golden-brown is a perfect colour for autumnal me, also I think this style of blouse suits me and I’m going to enjoy wearing it a lot.  It’s going to go with TONNES of my other clothes.

    

Details:

Top; MN2004 the Sudley blouse by Megan Nielsen patterns with minor modifications, silk crepe
Skirt; Vogue 1247, ivory curtaining fabric, details here and my review of this pattern here
Shoes; made by me, my own design, details here

Skirt below; Vogue 8363, canvas, details here

Location: Eagle Bay, Western Australia

Wearing it out to dinner recently, with my “bookshelf” skirt.  I think they go together quite nicely!

And my clogs have received a much-needed makeover!  The ivory pleather part of the upper has got so worn and was starting to pull badly around where it was nailed to the soles…. I’d already fixed it once but finally acknowledged that if I wanted them to last a lifetime, and I think they can! then it was time for action.  One thing I’ve learnt about making my own shoes is that if something needs a little mending or attention then it REALLY pays to get onto it very quickly.  Mum had given me an ivory leather clutch years ago “for shoes” and it was juuuuuust big enough so I could cut out new pieces.  I used my punch that I bought in Copenhagen, and upholstery thread in ivory to sew up and down all around, and hammered on the new uppers.

Now they’re as good as new!! in fact; I reckon BETTER!

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bunny top

I’ve made a new little top… I really wanted to debut it today seeing as it’s strewn with beautiful bouncing bunnies.  A bunny-tastic, rabbit-iferous Easter-rockin’ top!  😀

You know when you go to Spotlight for a handful of bits and bobs, not including fabric, but you grab a bit of fabric anyway just so you can pay for everything at the fabric counter and save yourself from queueing at that hideously long queue at the front checkout?  No? Just me then… 🙂  #anyexcuse #addictedtofabric  #ineedhelp

Well, this was a result of one of those times.  I do really love this though.  I mean, I don’t know if I’ve ever been to a fabric store and not spotted something I really love?! seriously! but I do manage to restrain myself most of the time.  In this case, the soft, washed out, almost-antique-y ink drawing-like look of the bunny print is really beautiful to my eyes, it’s a novelty print and pretty cute but I think it’s also still quite sophisticated in feel.  The print is more like a dirty charcoal than black, and the background has a sort of marled oatmeal/ivory blotchiness to it, which is very much my best sort of white.  The selvedge says it’s a linen mix, although truthfully  think the linen content is not huge.
   

Pattern; the epaulette cut and sewn, pattern No. 4 from “she has a mannish style”, or “she wears the pants”, by Yuko Takada.  I know, I just made another of these very recently… which is why I used it probably, it was handy to pluck out from my pattern stash again, and I didn’t have to put any thought into going through my top patterns searching for a different one.  #lazybum  Although, to be fair; I knew it’s loose-fitting unstructured lines would be perfect for the flimsy floatiness of the fabric too.

Because the fabric is almost sheer, I lined the body part of the top with a pale coffee-coloured jersey knit, that I bought yeeeeeears ago at a Morrison sale.  I’ve used little bits of it here and there, namely for this lingerie set, and also for this one too.

I cut the lining to be the same size as the shell from the armpit up, and just a bit slimmer in the body so the shell could skim over it better.  I put quite a bit of thought into the best way of lining it.. should I line it or underline it? have the bottom edge enclosed? neckline binding or clean edge? line the sleeves too?  eventually settled upon this way and think it’s turned out a pretty good way to line a loose top like this one. No bindings; it’s attached at the neckline and the sleeves, but otherwise floats freely and separately inside the top.

Construction method is as follows …
Firstly, sew the shoulder seams of the shell, likewise the lining pieces.  With this fabric being pretty flimsy and virtually see-through, I finished all seams very close to the stitching with my overlocker.

 

Pin the shell and lining right sides together around the neckline, stitch and finish.
Understitch.

 

Sew the side seams of the shell, and separately, the side seams of the lining

 

Pull the lining inside the shell, wrong sides together and keep both layers together, raw edges even, when stitching the sleeve in the armscye.  Sew the sleeve seams, pin sleeve cap in the shell/lining armscye right side of sleeve to right side of shell, stitch and finish edge close to stitching.

Hem the shell and lining separately.  I chose to invisibly hand-stitch the lower hems in place.

For the sleeve hems; I really like the raw sheer edge and the way it gently rolls up, and wanted to keep this look, however the knit does fray a little. So I made an attempt to employ something similar to what I’ve seen Sasha of secondopiano do… I was so impressed that Sasha unravels a length of the fabric filament and uses it to properly cast off the edges of her knits in the knitting way! Or is it crochet? I just checked… it’s crochet!  Her work looks so beautiful and perfectly finished.  Well, I didn’t  manage to crochet my edges here, I tried! but failed… I really need to get myself a teeny tiny little crochet hook I think! so instead I did a sort of cheat’s version… I threaded a sewing needle with the same beige all-purpose thread I’d used to sew the top together, and loop-stitched through each loop to finish the edge.  It’s secure, it won’t fray and it’s pretty much invisible, and I love how this turned out.  Thanks for the brilliant idea, Sasha!

OK, I have no idea what promoted this mad bunny pose… I’m gonna go with too much amaaaazing hot-cross bun?!  Or maybe… not enough amazing hot-cross bun?  Yep, that sounds far more likely…   better hop off and eat another one! 😉

    

Details:

top, the epaulette cut and sewn, pattern No 4 from “she has a mannish style” or “she wears the pants”, by Yuko Takada, soft linen-mix knit.  My previous versions of this pattern are here, here and here
Skirt; Vogue 1247, red velveteen, details here and my review of this pattern here
Shoes: black clogs made by me, here; white oxfords below, also made by me, here  I almost cannot believe I have TWO me-made pairs of shoes to choose from when deciding what will go with an outfit…  I feel like my self-made shoe collection is taking OFF!!!!

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