Monthly Archives: October 2020

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I made some cool blue sandals (shoes)

Woo-eee!  I really really wanted to add another pair of handmade shoes to my collection this year and after a whole bunch of postponing and procrastinating and a little bit of prevaricating too… ta da!  I basically had to force myself to get started – I hadn’t made a pair of shoes in over a year and it suddenly seemed quite daunting, and hard! but of course in the end I really enjoyed myself making these.  And I LOVE them!

I bought this quite thick blue suede from The Fabric Store in Auckland, during one of the massive stopovers that Air New Zealand gives you when you’re flying onto North America.  Which I have done twice over the last three years.  I think this might have been the Alaska trip.  I’d originally thought I’d try to make closed toe, oxford style shoes or derbys but realised the suede was really too thick for that.  You need for the leather/suede or whatever to be quite flexible and easily mouldable around your lasts without wrinkles or puckers, which is pretty much impossible in a thickish material.  So I eventually went with this, quite simple style instead.

Cute, huh?!  I’m pretty thrilled with them!  Most of the other components are from one of the kits I bought from Lisa of the Shoe Camaraderie, and I followed all her instructions too.  Although like I mentioned, I used my own leather and the design of the uppers is my own too.

I really wanted a matching blue thread for those visible stitches on my shoes, but didn’t have any, not even embroidery thread in the right colour!  which is why I settled upon the beige waxed thread that Lisa supplied with my kit.  Obviously this is the perfect stuff to use for the job anyway, and I think I’m fine with it being a contrasting colour, since it is the same colour as the bottom part of the sandal too.

Having a kit makes it all so much easier, plus I’ve done two workshops with Lisa now… so you’d think I would just barrel through, no problem; whip up a pair of sandals in no time.

Nope!  I stuffed up on multiple occasions!

Firstly, I went to the effort of masking up my lasts and drawing out a fabulous and as it turned out, ridiculously complicated style for my sandals.  And made a pattern and all.  Let’s just say, it did NOT WORK.  I did try pretty hard to make it work and then moved on to trying to force the pieces into a different design, which obviously was not going to work either.

Settled upon this, much simplified design, cut out a whole new set of pieces.  Confidently whipped up a coupla buckle and strap sets and practically finished the sandals.  Smooth sailing!

Noticed the buckle and strap were going the wrong way, ie buckling forwards rather than backwards.  *cue silent scream*

I almost just let it go, but then realised I had plenty of leather actually, enough for new straps, and if I was going to do this thing, may as well do it properly.  Cut new strips, made new buckle and straps sets.  Completed the rigmarole a second time.  Obviously not quite so smooth sailing this time.  It never is.

Next, I’d applied glue to the soles with great thoroughness and excellent coverage… or so I thought.  After leaving them overnight, I noticed in the morning a few millimetres of lifting on the side of one of the sandals.  This is very very bad.  You do NOT want gaps.  I managed to pry open a slightly bigger gap, enough to dribble more glue down, spread it around with an opened-out paper clip, and propped it open with another paper clip to go tacky.  I gave it masses of time, and fortunately this very very NOT-recommended trick seemed to work.  A miracle!!!

On to the finishing touches… went around to Tim’s place to retrieve the sander, which he has for some time, I might add.  Plugged the sander in, very happy I was basically on the home stretch now, and turned it on.  Nothing.  Dead as a doornail.  Hunted out a different extension cord, tried different sockets.  Brushed sawdust and cobwebs from out of likely looking spots.  Nope.  Finally rigged up the the orbital sander instead and got the job done, which did take longer but of course not nearly so long as if I had to sand by hand, so all’s good.  Apart from the fact that maybe we now need a new belt sander, of course!

So, this is the tenth thing in my make twelve, the “making plan” I set up for myself at the beginning of the year.  This particular project was arguably the most intimidating out of the entire twelve, maybe the most challenging too.  I do love making shoes but it’s definitely next level stuff, catapulting me right out of my comfort zone … so I feel like the final two are going to be easy peasy, lemon squeezy!  We shall see!

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Tjilkamala Rockhole

I’ve made up the first of my indigenous fabrics that I bought back in … June? I think, and I posted about it here… 

this stunning print is Tjilkamala Rockhole, designed by Alice Nampitjinpa; it was produced by Ikuntji Artists and I bought it through FlyingFox Fabrics

I decided upon a simple little dress with matching hat ensemble, inspired by this Marimekko outfit I’d seen many years ago…  btw I had to search and search and search to find this image!!  Note to self; always “pin” your favourite pictures!

I picked one of my favourite “simple” little shift dress patterns, the Named Inari tee dress, and Vogue 8844 for my matching hat.  These are both patterns I’ve used many times before, and I love them both.  I did my usual modification for the Inari dress by putting inseam pockets into those elegantly swooping side seams.  Oh, and I also widened the sleeve at the hem edge with a big big wedge insertion, as described here.  This adjustment enables you to lift your arms over your head without the dress riding up so much as to expose your knickers underneath.  Truth!  It does make quite a difference to the wearability of this dress, particularly in a non-stretch fabric.

For the neckline facings, I used a deep chocolate brown cotton voile, bought originally from Fabulous Fabrics.  I also cut the artist’s name and that of the print from the selvedge, and stitched them to the back facing.  I like doing this for special fabrics, and this is surely a very special fabric!

I did a search to find out which way up the print was supposed to go.  To the best of my knowledge, this is correct  🙂

I’ve made the Inari so many times before I don’t have much else to add … oh, except I did do something a bit different with the hem!

wait; what’s this?  WHERE’S THE HEM?!!

 

So the hemline for the Inari has side splits and a high/low hemline, so you can see the underside of the fabric quite clearly when you’re wearing the dress, especially when sitting down… and the wrong side of this fabric is the solid, deep chocolate brown that is the background of the print.  I decided I didn’t like the idea of seeing the print of the hem visible inside the dress and only wanted to see plain chocolate brown fabric.

 

So; to “camouflage” those hems I cut wide bias cut strips of same chocolate brown voile that I used  for the neckline facings and attached these along the fold line for the hem.  I then folded the top edge over and inside the raw edge of the hem, to hide the print and machine stitched close to the edge.  Finally, I hand stitched the hem to the dress as normal.  So yes, the full 3cm hem of the dress is there, and essentially the chocolate brown voile is acting like a “mask” over the top of it, hiding the print.  The side splits were also “masked” under bias cut strips in the same way.

All side splits and hems were hand-stitched, so as to avoid any visible stitching on the outside of the garment that would besmirch the purity of that beautiful print.

The hat: I LOVE the hat! even though if I’m realistic I know I’m probably going to get more wear out of the dress, but I still love it!  Serendipitous thing; when I dug out the pattern, I found to my great joy that past me had cut an extra brim interfacing, once upon a time. It was neatly folded up in with the pattern pieces.   I’d completely forgotten about it, but I guess the last time I’d made the pattern I must have thought I needed two.  Yay, past me!  Making the hat is simple enough… you can read my review of this terrific pattern here…  I used the same chocolate brown cotton to line it as for the inner bits of the dress.  I did put my own label in the hat!  I also put in a hanging ribbon in under the grosgrain ribbon just a small scrap from my sewing basket.  A hanging loop is not part of the pattern, and not an essential thing either, but it’s also something I think comes in very handy when you do have one in the hat.  I’m really glad of the one in my khaki hat and many times I’ve thought about putting one in my white hat.  I think I’m just going to get on and do that right now…

I bought the chocolate brown grosgrain ribbon from Spotlight.  You can see here a patched bit in the brim lining… I didn’t do this because I didn’t have enough fabric, I have plenty!  I actually have enough leftover for a little skirt sometime down the track too, but only if I was a bit devious with my cutting out here.  I decided a small patch in the brim lining was a small sacrifice to pay to leave myself enough fabric for that future skirt!

my labels are from the Dutch Label Shop

So, obviously I’m pretty happy with my new ensemble!!  It feels super special. I love how it’s such a visually exciting and eye-catching print, but most of all I love how it’s also so completely Australian.  It’s just beautiful.  I am particularly happy and thrilled to have found places to buy indigenous fabrics, to be able to support indigenous artists, and of course I am most certainly going to purchase more in the future, once I’ve finished making up the other print I bought in June.  I already have my eye on a few more!

  

Details:

Dress; the Inari tee dress, pattern by Named, in Tjilkamala Rockhole print cotton, designed by Alice Nampitjinpa
Hat; Vogue 8844, in Tjilkamala Rockhole print cotton, designed by Alice Nampitjinpa
Sandshoes; Trenery

location; Winjee Sam, Yallingup

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a blanca flight suit with a difference

I really loved the industrial-chic vibe of the Closet Core patterns Blanca flight suit pattern as soon as it came out… loved the zippered breast pockets, the front opening zip, the front hip pockets, the er.. bottom? pockets; sorry have momentarily forgotten the technical term for those things.  Anyway…  such a plethora of fabulous topstitching possibilities!  I actually love top-stitching, it’s one of those calming zen activities that pleases my inner love for well-ordered neatness…  and just the pure and simple visual joy of looking at that evenly dotty line marching its way across cloth.  *happy sigh*

I think though, that I’ve long come to terms with the fact that I want only a limited number of trousers/pants in my wardrobe.  I have some nice ones that I enjoy wearing but the thing is that I really really love dresses and skirts the most.  And jumpsuits, I’m even more happy to have none!  But of course, how easy is it to make the Blanca pattern as a dress?  Super easy!  I didn’t take any pictures, but you just simply cut the pants pieces in a skirt shape instead.  I think I added a squidge more width to the hip area too… just in case, with a view to removing it if I needed to.  I didnt  #pearfromwayback

I also added a walking vent to the skirt back in the centre seam… It’s not really necessary for walking, I put it in mostly for visual purposes because I thought the back skirt would look a tad bland without something there.  I’m really glad I did think of it, because I think it does add a touch of interest.

Want to see something funny/annoying?  I originally cut the vent to a certain length which I thought would look visually nice.  Then I hemmed the skirt and of course the vent became too short!  So I had to carefully unpick it, and splice in a little wedge of fabric neatly to fill the gap, and redo it.  Was this easy?  NO!  Ha!  I think it looks neat enough, and since it’s hidden inside the vent away from view you can’t really see it at all.  I’m pretty happy with how almost-invisible it turned out though, even if you’re looking!

Note to self though; if you’re putting in a walking vent ad hoc, cut it way way too long to start with.  You can always cut the top down if it’s too long, and if it’s not?  This simple precaution will save you a heck of a struggle later on.

Those tabs are supposed to be down near the trouser hems in the original pattern, I put mine on the sleeves instead.  The buttons are pretty marbled ones from my stash.  Oh, fabric… I bought this rusty coloured cotton twill from Spotlight stores, fun fact: this is actually the very last piece of fabric I bought before lockdown commenced.  I bought the wine coloured zips at the same time, and I already had the ivory topstitching thread in my stash.

Look at this perfect belt buckle!!  I bought this from Closet Core patterns too… it’s the absolute perfect finishing touch.  I had to wait a whole month for it to show up, but I’m so thrilled with it!

I had a small scrap of striped linen, leftover from this Perth top I made for my sister-in-law S, which I managed to cut the lining for the front pockets.  I love this little Beetlejuice touch peeping out!

Back belt loops, back pockets.  Any excuse to indulge in a bit more top-stitching…

Who says you can’t fly in a dress?  Up up and away!!

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pretty little maternity dress

No, I’m not pregnant, obviously, but I do currently have a pregnant daughter … She is wearing the things I’ve already made for her constantly, AND I’ve also lent to her my rusty lace Cissy dress for however long she needs it – and boy do I miss it!  Even so she is in desperate need of more options.  Well, how could I not do something to help out?

I’m modelling it here though, because she and D have moved into their new, own home and she is now a half an hour’s drive away (sob)  I still can’t get used to her being so far away!!

While I was wearing it I was reminded how much I love this cute style.  The pattern is the Megan Nielsen Sudley dress, one I’ve made for myself once previously here, and once as a dress for Cassie here.  I really like the oversized, comfy skirt and three quarter sleeves, which I have gathered up with a loop of skinny elastic inserted in the casing; and the keyhole neckline with spaghetti tie is really pretty.  Otherwise, the style is quite similar actually to the aforementioned Cissy dress in many ways, with a few key design point differences of course! but the style and feel make them very much sister designs, I think.

The fabric is this, very pretty, rayon crepe from Minerva… isn’t it lovely?  I think it’s really sweet and “granny’s wallpaper”, in a pretty old-fashioned sort of a way.

Now I have a confession, I initially cut out a different thing from this fabric, and … well it was terrible.  There’s no sugar-coating it.  I was quite depressed about it actually, had bought the pattern with great expectations and excitement, and it didn’t take long before I realised it had … issues.  I won’t name and shame it, well, not just yet! but I think I’ll give it a revisit at some point and work out a re-jig.  I already have plans.. but more on that at a future date!  I managed to cut out the Sudley pattern from the pieces, and miraculously I’m fairly confident I have enough small pieces leftover that I think I can cobble together for a thing for me too.  I just need to get around to it!!

… crazy Spiderman picture inspired by a Vogue magazine shoot…

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a colourful coat

I made this new coat-ish/dress-ish/shirt-ish sort of a thing for myself!

How beautiful is this linen??  It’s stunning, isn’t it.  I’m head over heels in love with the print – gorgeously colourful, bird-strewn, with the looks of an ancient, beautiful patchwork… the colours are so painterly/flower-garden with that lovely distressed quality that appeals to my quixotic little heart that likes stuff to be rustic but also pretty too.   I’d only bought a shortish length really, and it really teetered on the verge of being Too Good To Cut, I had it laid out for quite a while, trying to gathering the courage to take the scissors to it!  I only managed it really because it was on my list of twelve things and having those intentions blogged sorta forces me to stick by my own self-commitments.  I bought it some time last year from Fabulous Fabrics, using a voucher that was a birthday gift from some of my lovely friends.

The pattern is the Carolyn pj pattern by Closet Core patterns, yes, the one named after ME!  I can’t say still how thrilled I STILL am to have a pattern named after me, it was such a huge honour, and I often think how I’d like to have more of “my” pattern in my own wardrobe too… I still wear my white Carolyn shirt quite a lot.  I saw Rosie from ArtworkerProjects had made her Carolyn as a shirtdress, and this made me think I’d like to make something like that, and I’d also seen, and pinned this beautiful coat once upon a time, and the two thoughts slowly alchemistry-ed  and absolved themselves into this one project in my mind, eventually…

I lengthened the body pieces, obviously, and I also lengthened the turning point of the lapel a little, so the coat buttons a little lower than it does on the pattern.  The other, internal, change I made was to add a back facing… this stabilises this area, something not necessary in a shirt but that you definitely want in a coat, for sure!

Oh, I added pockets… #ofcourse

I finished all the internal raw edges with HongKong seaming… because obviously in a garment that will flap open while you’re wearing it you want the insides to be as pretty as possible!  For this, I used the leftovers of the turquoise poplin, that I used for one of the masks I made for Craig’s Mum.

Now’s the moment when I indulge in a bit of zero-waste bragging, ahem #insufferable?  #moi? … so; I made a long bias strip using the entirety of the turquoise leftovers and have about 15cm of it left…  when this happens in a project it’s actually SO satisfying!!  Also, there are only the smallest of the colourful linen print scraps leftover too…  I might have enough for a doll’s mini-dress, but not much else!

For the button, and continuing on with my policy of not buying any buttons unless I Absolutely Have To; I found this purple, wool-covered button in my stash, and I love how it doesn’t really match, but at the same time it’s kind of a perfect match too.

So, if you hate obsessiveness in sewing, look away right now.  I initially just used off- white thread in my bobbin for when I stitched down the front and back facings… and it looked pretty terrible. I tried to not let it bother me, but ultimately twas a lost cause… eventually I had to unpick most of it and re-do it using matching threads.  So, some of the sections are in blue, some are in red, some are in off-white and some in pink.  Yes, this is a weird thing to do, but I’m very satisfied with how it looks, so… yeah.  I think it was worth unpicking and re-doing, from my point of view!

This is the latest, and ninth, thing in my little collection of twelve things, that I proposed I would make for myself at the beginning of the year and … regretted…?  many times over?!?!  ok, not so much “regretted-regretted”, because I sincerely love all the fabrics, and have sincerely loved all of the finished products too, just “regretted” as in “have struggled with” as in I just don’t have as much spare time nowadays to lavish on them as I initially thought I would.  I’m NOT trying to busy-brag because I kinda loooooathe when some people go on and on about not having time for fun stuff like it’s your job or something, so I apologise for those overtones… wooo!  Sorry about that.

Anyway!  I’m so happy I’ve got this made! and also that I stuck with my original “coat” plan and didn’t get sidetracked into some little sundress like I was SORELY tempted to do instead, multiple times over!  I really love it!

  

Details:

Coat; from the Closet Core patterns Carolyn pj pattern, linen from Fabulous Fabrics
White dress; Vogue 1351, white crepe from Fabulous Fabrics, details here
Sandals; ye olde favourites from Zomp boutique

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stuff for Arthur…

those little pursed lips!!

So, Kelly had lent me one of Arthur’s onesies so I could make a better fitting pattern than the Burda one I’ve been using up until now… for some reason that pattern makes for a very short, wide onesie.  And I guess he could be a very tall, skinny baby?  Although I think the sizing could be a bit off, because he looks like a perfectly normal shaped baby to me?!

Anyway, my first go was using one of Tim’s old T-shirts, above.  To be honest, these are my favourites for babies, teenage T-shirts are so cool and so they of course make for very cool babies’ onesies too!  I used some of the details for the new onesie, even the little Rusty tag which I un-picked and re-stitched into the sleeve seam.  Cute!

Then I made him a new one using new fabric.

So, dilemma… The new one will be a lot more robust, because of being made of new fabric, obviously.  The ones made out of old T-shirts are a little fragile, since the T-shirt itself has been washed and worn, over and over and over by the time you’re refashioning this much-loved thing, with all its sentiment and memories, into a new thing for your much-loved baby.

The new onesie, though it’s going to be a “better”, has none of that, so it’s just not quite as cool or interesting.  I kinda love the refashioned ones the best, though you know they just can’t wear them with as much confidence in durability as the new.  Hmmm.  Anyway, he still looks cute in them both!

And, I have a reasonably good pattern now.  The clincher, which gives it a really great fit, is that gusset bit.  To make the neckline fit over his head, it is one of those open ones, where the front laps over the back at the shoulder, but is otherwise not stitched together.  It works really well.

Also, I’m looking forward to making Cassie’s baby some things out of the new pattern too.  When/If I get time!

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sockies


my previous batch of sockettes has been worn practically threadbare, so I indulged in a happy rummage through the prettiest of my cotton jersey scraps, followed by some samurai wielding of the rotary cutter, a spot of rapid vrrrm-ing though the machine, and voila!!   new ones!

I used the syttochprytt ballerina sock pattern which is apparently currently sold out in the shop so I’m hoping it gets restocked soon because it’s such a goodie, no seam underneath the foot and so quick and simple to make.

All my cotton jerseys are leftovers from previous projects… so apart from the skinny elastic around the top they’re basically “free”!   I love using up leftovers!!

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